원정 개요

Dr Alf - 11 May 78

Arrived on 8 May about 8:30 am at about 6200m making route to site of C3 (C2 at 5600m - C3 would have been about 6400m). Climbing were Sagmeister, Widmann and 2 Sherpas.

Icefall started at about 7000m and caused avalanche with strong winds and pressure; hit only the 2 Austrians while 2 Sherpas were lucky to protect themselves behind ice; Sagmiester also some what protected by Widmann was hit on head by ice and fell 10m.

Sherpas not hurt at all. Sagmeister ice hit on shoulder and frostbite in both hands but will heal as will shoulder, etc.

Widmann cuts on head; has been X-rayed. Was disoriented but now better. In hospital (Sagmeister also in room with him, but his hospitalization not really necessary). Probably stay in KTM 10 days to close head cuts.

Expedition slow because of much snow and avalanches.

Rosefolder and Pletschko had been first to go to area where Widmann hit; had been up 3-6 May and then came down on 6th to BC saying it too dangerous. Tried on 7th another route to west but too difficult.

Altogether 4 members had decided too dangerous and would not go up.

All to be in BC today and porters come 13 May to pack up.


SR Sharma, Tourism - 12 May 78

Annapurna I abandoned. Rudolf Widmann in Shanta Bhavan hospital. Trapped in avalanche while going to C3 site and injured in head 8 May and abandoned same day.


SR Sharma, Tourism - 10 May 78

Police radio message from Annapurna I expedition requests helicopter to Jomsom, where leader is and thence to BC or C1 to bring to KTM Rudolf Widmann for operation.

Widmann on 8 May was making route to C3 jsut above C2; hit by avalanche. He is being taken down to C1 and to BC.


Gritzner - 3 April 78

Route: try to east of French route but will see when reach mountain and see avalanche pattern and keep log book on time of day.

Pokhara -> BC 8-9 days.
BC at 4500m.
5 camps above BC with C5 7400-7500m.
No interest in east peak.

Have oxygen but think not necessary for climbing or sleeping - although possibly summiters sleep on oxygen night before summit attack.

Sirdar and 4 Sherpas above BC.

When realized his expedition is 13th on Annapurna I - "That's unlucky for us."