원정 개요

Lenser - 7 Nov 79

Climbed point 6170m at south end of Chago Glacier by Braun, Rutz, Pochen on 16th Sept (6170m) & 23 Sept (Pochan). Also point 6250m NNW of point 6170m by Rutz, Lenser and Sonam Girme on 18th Sept. Weichert and Sonam Girme climbed E Ridge of Makalu II. Never went above Makalu Col on top NW Ridge of Makalu I.

Postcard from Stefan Woerner to a friend in Switzerland, dated Base Camp, 5450m, 28th Sept says: "The work on the mountain is very hard but however we hope to reach the summit around Oct 10th"


Winkler - 14 Oct 79

Winkler and Schlamp came by helicopter to KTM 13 Oct after having walked ex-BC 8 Oct. Schlamp no climber. Winkler unhappy with Lenser's attempt. Mailrunner said saddle reached c6th between Makalu I and Makalu II at 7400m. Braun has hemmoroids; gone back up to ABC.

C2 put at 6500m - date not known
Pochan strong climber.


Lenser - 6 Aug 79

Route = NW Ridge - new route
BC where French 1955 had C1 at foot of ridge from point 6350m at 5300m
C1 6400m = French C3
C2 7400m in North Col
Makalu II from Col if try this peak at all - a fall back peak
C4 7700m on very steep NW Ridge and rocks very smooth; may traverse around and put one tent at 7700m.
C4 or C5 at 8100m on ridge in good place, near top but difficult rock climbing.

12 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Sonam Girme
200 porters
6 weeks for climb - top 15 Oct if at BC 1 Sept

4 members arrive Sept 8 or 9 and fly by helicopter to Sedua 2100m on 11 Sept.
40 oxygen bottles; can be used for climbing by those who wish.


Abandoned attempt on Makalu I

By 19 Oct - did not actually go above North Col to try Makalu I.
Climbed 2 minor peaks west of Chago Glacier.