원정 개요

Collet - 2 Nov 79

Very dangerous from Junction Peak to Main Peak, so went to West Peak instead. Perhaps possible via SW Ridge from French Pass across glacier between Dhaulagiri I and Tukuche. This route never climbed.

Swiss went to Junction Peak and then West Peak and not to Main Peak.

Most difficult is to climb Brenva Face (North Face) to Junction Peak. Needed fixed rope because over 60 degrees.

Another route is from 300m above Tukuche Village via South Ridge - this is a long route.

Simon became ill from altitude and could not go to summit.
No accidents


Mollard & Collet - 30 Sept 79

Route = North Ridge
Approach across Dhampas Pass and onto Glacier north of Tukuche and onto West-East Ridge north of Tukuche to North Ridge of Tukuche
BC 5600m. Only 1 high camp at about 6100m.
Arrived 29 Sept; leave 2 Oct by bus to Pokhara; leave Pokhara 2 Oct with 30-5 porters and reach BC 14-15 Oct.
10-14 days climbing
3 Sherpas above BC. Ogeba [Ajiwa] Sherpa as sirdar
Med. oxygen only