원정 개요

Schubert - 17 Nov 79

2nd party used camps and ropes of 1st party.

1st summit team of 2nd party (Hilber, Schnaider and Wanninger) went up on 2nd Nov but in storm that afternoon made snowhole and bivouacced 20m below summit - summit itself on 3rd Nov.

2nd summit team (Gerschner, Schubert, Ang Dorje and Nawang Dorje Sherpas) went to top from C3 on 7th and back to C3 same (very long) day.

No accidents, frostbite or serious illness. Schubert found climbing "a little" more difficult with loss of toes from frostbite on Annapurna II.


Hupfauer - 30 Oct 79

Ministry's report of 26 Oct re summiters of 1st party correct, also their information on camps. Route was South Ridge to South Face.

2nd party using 1st group's tents and fixed ropes, but getting colder now. Should reach summit 8-10 Nov.


S. Hupfauer - 25 Sept 79

Same route as '78 autumn - 45 grade in mid-section
3 camps
BC 4400m
C1 4800m fixed rope
C2 5600m
Small summit Dome 6500m - 400m fixed rope on steep
C3 6200m

No good place for a C4. Also not so many Sherpas.
Approach march via Kaphe Khola from Pokhara (via Gurjakani & Budzunge), 12 days with 100 porters.

Pit Schubert leads 2nd group arriving KTM 7 Oct and leave KTM 10 Oct.

Hupfauer group returns to KTM 30 Oct and leaves 3 Nov.
Arrive BC 7 Oct and finish climbing 29 Oct at latest.
No oxygen except med.
5 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Ang Temba from Lukla, 32 years old.