원정 개요

Renaud - 6 Nov 79

Summiters were as follows:

21 Oct
Chand, GE Estienne, Y Estienne, Renaud, Salomez, Soleymieux, Manificat

22 Oct
Norbu Jangbu, Jangbu, Lhakpa Norbu

23 Oct
Chaud, M Drapier, Renaud, Audoubert, Belli, Charbonnel, Collot

24 Oct
Renaud, Bovero, Charbonnel

Route was North Ridge, route attempted in 1959 by British, same route except just above BC. Found same British rope and piton. Other BC was at 5100m; other camp, altitudes and all camp dates from Ministry of Tourism correct. BC on Dablam glacier northeast of mountain and C1 at Col.

Difficult snow conditions: snow was loose and got new snow.
Ridge difficult, but not dangerous.
No accidents, no avalanching (on ridge).

Mrs Ardisson, Mrs Drapier, J Reynaud, Segal and Mrs Soleymieux did not go above BC.


Renaud - 16 Sept 79

One helicopter with 2 members flew to Lukla today and rest of members go to Lukla by helicopters tomorrow

2nd party leave France 1 Oct and arrive KTM 2 or 3 Oct. Leader will be Coudray if he can come after K2, or Dr. Magnificat (Makalu II summiter autumn 1978). Fly to Lukla - same route, on Ama Dablam as 1st group.

Renaud will remain in Nepal for trekking party and Dhaulagiri I 1980 arrangements. Will be in Nepal until 2nd party has finished.


Renaud & Segal - 3 Sept 79

Walking in to Khumbu when baggage arrives from Bangkok.
Climbing route a North Ridge same as 1959 Autumn.

BC above Dingboche Pangboche from west side to north at about 4600m+. 3 camps above BC. How much time on mountain not really known, depending on snow conditions, etc. Have 3 months food. 15-20 days probably BC.

5 Sherpas above BC.
Oxygen for medical use.

1st expedition to Himalayas by guides for Briancon in 5 Alps 100 km from Grenoble.