원정 개요

BC 20th Sept - 2 attempts on mountain by 2 different ways by all 3 members together.

1) NE Ridge: from Omaga valley to BC at 16,200 feet at foot of Omaga Glacier to pass at 5786m to NE Ridge. 1-1/2 days to pass, then 2nd night short distance above pass on ridge. Then it snowed and descended via pass of 5680m into head of Mingbo valley to north of this 2nd pass and back to BC. This was 24/26 Sept.

2) 29 Sept to North Ridge on southwest corner of Omaga Glacier. Biv less than about 19,000 feet or so in 2 hours climbing, weather bad (snow) and retreated bad weather till 5th Oct and then were to go to West Cwm. So no time for more attempts on Kangtega, so abandoned Kangtega in favour of Everest.

4th actually left BC and Carrington decided not to go to Everest - may be didn't have Everest fever.

Think 2nd route feasible and could have finished it given spell of good weather.

Carrington left Khumjung 13 Oct and arrived KTM with wife on foot 20 Oct.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Ministry of Tourism - 7 Oct 79

Abandoned after reaching 20,500 feet on 24 Sept, no reason given. LO in KTM 6 Oct. Carrington to arrive 8 Oct.


Jim Jerram - 6 Oct 79

Carrington's expedition failed on Kangtega. He and other 2 split up.
Carrington now in Khumjung - will stay a week before coming out to KTM. Other 2 will join Scott on Everest.


Hall & Carrington - 2 Sept 79

BC Thyangboche - route northwest or northeast sides hoping to avoid repeating Japanese '79 spr route.

Leave KTM 5 Sept - stay at Khumjung with day walks and find BC. After 2 weeks go straight to mountain and finish climb by end Sept, then rest for 5 Oct Everest BC rendezvous.
No Sherpas above BC
No oxygen