원정 개요

Bergamaschi - 20 Oct 79

SE Ridge route was impossible. Very dangerous wall because rotten rock and pitons wouldn't hold. 900m high wall on east side of ridge; 5-4m snow very soft and ridge corniced. SE Ridge impossible at anytime of year weather was not good: snow every day.

Should have put C3 at 6300m on ridge but couldn't put any camp there - did reach 6350m on ridge and 2 Sherpas slept one night there but no place for tent (Sherpas used biv tent). 3 members [ ]and 2 Sherpas [Ang Pasang and Nga Temba] reached 6350m 1st Sun in Oct.

1 porter died [in preparation for] return march when slipped and fell 9 Oct [coming up to base camp for loads].


Cavozzuti - 30 Sept 79

Cavazutti's returns to KTM after 2 days by foot from Pokhara.

Collini walks unsteadily. Collini fell from C1 to BC on glacier at 4800m for about 10m, no difficulty in route. Shoulder dislocated, no fracture; slipped when returning with others from carrying food. No others injured; about now yesterday.

Cavazzuti and colleague tried to reduce dislocation, but not successful so necessary for general anesthesia.

Reached KTM from BC at 1:00 pm today.

Collini to hotel - stays till a trekking froup arrives 9 or 10 Oct - treks with them to near BC - group and expedition return to Italy together.

Perhaps today or tomorrow C3 at about 6300m on ridge.The first camp on ridge - 2 mere camps on ridge will be needed but difficult part is C2 to C3 because of avalanches. This 3:00 am climbers left camp because after 9:00 & 10:00 am hits and avalanches.

Very difficult mountain; 300m at least of ridge to summit. Morale is high but whether success possible don't know.

18-26th Sept - 4 or 5 days of snow.

Modi Khola to BC in Annapurna Sanctuary at 4300-4400m. 5 or 6 camps above - on to SE Ridge of Fang.

250 porters to BC. 10 high-altitude Sherpas. Oxygen only medical.
Leave 3 Sept to PKR. 7-8 days later in BC.
Summit after 1 month, hope not difficult part of route = SE Ridge, which is very narrow - to reach ridge danger of avalanches.