원정 개요

Malaczynski - 29 Oct 79

Expedition reached 7800m 3 times: 3 Oct for first time, then 12 and 14 Oct.

North Face can be climbed; may try again in spring; had bad weather with snow daily and strong winds. Rocks 7700-7900m are problem to climbing; impossible to climb in such weather.

Others arrive KTM 31 Oct.

No accidents. Bertulis got sick while on solo recce but was found in time.


Bertulis - 21 Oct 79

Bertulis and 2 members now in KTM. Expedition made 3 attempts to establish C5 at 7800m on 4th, 10th and 11th. Climbers decimated by severe weather by frostbite and ill health. About 7600-7700m highest point reached. Climbed via North Face to summit ridge which could be called West Ridge; reached this summit.

Abandoned idea of going up a face and down a ridge. Problems on face is lack of good tent sites. Only one good site for tents on whole face and it very low at 6000m.

No use of oxygen at all even sleeping by anyone.

No other mountains climbed, no accidents, serious illness or serious frostbite.

Left BC 15 Oct. If porters available, rest leave BC 20 Oct. Might possibly make another attempt for summit if porters late and weather fine, so officially expedition not finished when Bertulis left.


Malaczynski - 17 Aug 79

Leave KTM Tuesday 21 Aug to Pokhara. Caravan to Myagdi Khola via Beni and Khibang. Leave Pokhara 22 Aug. About 2 weeks to BC with about 150 porters. BC at about 4800m.

Route up North Face via tried in 1950's down NE Ridge with same.

Perhaps up East Face and down to NE Col.

On North Face, hope 5 camps enough may be less. In '50's had trouble to find site on pear for a camp. Poles expect to climb all of the Pear route in one day.

6-7 weeks climbing. 4 men and few porters will go in advance to site BC in advance of main party.

No oxygen for climbing or sleeping - only medical equipment.


Letter from Juan Massons (Spanish Dhaulagiri I) - 17 Apr 79

On April 8th we have placed our base camp at an altitude of 4600m. It means than in some three days all the loads and members will be living at base camp. Actually on April 8th, one third of the members remain in an Intermediate Camp at 4100m and the rest in a low camp at 3600m.