원정 개요

Route changed to South Spur but no real progress on it.

Naess - 14 Nov 79

Were on SW Ridge. Went faster than schedule up to 6000m despite bad weather with fog every late am and snow every afternoon so tracks had to be reopened every am.

Then came to icefield. Had over 1-1/2m of snow over it and it was extremely dangerous for avalanches and is 60 degrees; technically not difficult but avalanche danger such that could not risk sending Sherpas into it. Decided to wait a week to see whether fog would stop and snow conditions change with sun. Went back up again with Naess and Hoibakk to make alpine-style ascent. Naess got bronchitis night before going to top camp.

Got permission for South Spur and hoped to do alpine-style ascent of this spur, but would have needed 2 weeks for this route requiring lot of fixed rope and all members by now suffering from bronchitis.

2 previous expeditions had been on icefield in spring when much less snow.

Highest point reached: 6050m, 150m into icefield by all members on several times. Icefield is from 5800-5900m to 6200-6300m.


Naess - 30 Sept 79

Same route as Japanese and Swiss expeditions: SW Ridge

BC at top of Solu Khola where Swiss had theirs at 4840m at Dudh Kund just under glacier.

Will have 2 high camps and 1 tent at about 6600m. Hope to make C2 large enough for 4 people at about 6200m.

Friday 5th Oct: Naess and 1 who arrives 3 Oct fly helicopter to Junbesi. Others left KTM Sat 29 Sept and should reach Junbesi Sat or Sun. 2 days march from Junbesi to BC. Rambug 3 days-stop for climbers but porters direct to BC.

BC on 9 or 10 Oct
20 days to reach C2, 1-2 days more to summit.
4 Sherpas above including sirdar.
Used 150-160 porters but may not get that many because of Dashain holidays.

10 oxygen not yet arrived in KTM for medical only and skiing down when moving much faster, but oxygen may not arrive and anyway skiing doubtful.


Faalund - 21 Sept 79

Route from Dudh Kund lake from southeast and other onto SW Ridge and not through icefall which Japanese climbed.

Leave KTM 26 Sept. Naess arrive KTM 23 or 24 Sept. Not in Himalayas too much a circus performing for audience - interested salon for selling, equipment and actually mountaineering but letting media define it.

This expedition wants to show an alternative. Agrees with Messner about mountaineering by fair means, which he wants to define better than Messner did: not to offend nature. He did use oxygen but used technology in plastic boots, etc. This expedition's clothing, tents, sleeping bags, mattress, all natural fibers (reindeer skins, etc). French packs not aluminum but steel. Wool underwear and breeches. Tents are cotton and silk. Ropes: tried to get silk but couldn't get them so are plastic (will come again and then will have silk rope - maybe to Everest).

4 Sherpas above BC.

This 1st Norwegian expedition on peak in Nepal: earlier Norwegians were 1907 attempt on Kabru from Sikkim.

1971 IHE members on Everest
1971 autumn Naess recce of Gaurishankar.