원정 개요

Japanese Expedition Chronicle (Dhaulagiri 2nd side)

Sept 03 - Started route-making toward East Ridge of Dhaulagiri 2nd by Koga and Nezu.

Sept 08 - C1 was intended to be established at 5400m, however the route condition was very good, so Koga, Nezu and a guide (Sherpa) pitched C1 at 5800m.

Sept 09-10 - The route to C2 was made, crossing Tsaurabong Glacier, which contains many hidden crevasses.

Sept 15 - C2 was estabished by Koga and Nezu just below Snow Peak at 6500m.

Sept 16-17 - Two days were spent for route-making to C3 by Koga and Nezu and those members went down to C1 for their rest.

Sept 18-21 - Due to heavy snow fall, members and guides in all camps stopped their movement. During this period, 5 members went down to Base Camp to take a rest for two days.

Sept 22-24 - Fixed the route that got damaged by the heavy snow fall.

Sept 25 - Four members (Koga, Nezu, Araki and Chiba) moved to C2 from Base Camp.

Sept 26 - Those four members started to carry loads to the site for C3, fixing the route.

Sept 29 - C3 was established by Araki and Nezu at 6800m. After establishing the camp, they started route-making toward C4.

Oct 01 - Reached the place for C4.

Oct 05 - C4 was established by Koga, Nezu, Araki and Chiba at 7450m. Since the site was too narrow to pitch the tents, a snow cave was dug and the tents were pitched in the cave.

Oct 06 - Started route-making toward the summit (also C5).

Oct 08 - Left C4 at 06:00. Making the route in strong wind, Koga, Nezu, Araki and Chiba made the summit of Dhaulagiri II at 10:30. Afterward those members went down to C2.

Oct 09 - Three guides (Ang Tshering, Gyalzen, Lhakpa Norbu) made the summit directly from C3 through C4. They stayed at C4 after climbing.

Oct 10 - Those guides who made the summit last day again went to the summit to carry loads and went down to C3. Komatsu, Hirokawa and three guides (Lama Phinjo, Ang Pasang, Ajoa Tenzing) reached the summit at 15:25 from C3 (one of the guides from C2).

Oct 12 - Five members (Komatsu, Koga, Araki, Nezu and Chiba) and two guides (Lhakpa Norbu, Lama Phinjo) moved into C4.

Oct 13 - In the afternoon, 5 members established C5 at the summit of Dhaulagiri II. Used oxygen during their sleeping time.

Oct 14 - Those 5 members left C5 at 10:24 and reached Advanced Camp at the saddle between Dhaulagiri II and III, 7550m.

Oct 15 - The traverse party left Advanced Camp at 8:30 and reached Dhaulagiri III 7715m at 10:08. After taking a rest for one hour at the summit, they went to Advanced Camp of Dhaulagiri V side, located at the saddle between Dhaulagiri III and V at 7200m. On the way to Advanced Camp of D-V, the party met the party from Dhaulagiri V, Ogura and Okura. Arrived AC at 14:40.

Oct 16 - Left Advance Camp at 9:00 and reached the summit of Dhaulagiri V. After the party made the summit, Komatsu stayed at C4 of D-V and the others went down to C3.

Maki, Wakabayashi and Gyalzen went to Advance Camp of D-II on Oct 16, to climb D-II and to support the party from D-V. Wakabayashi went down to C4 after the ascent of the summit; Gyalzen also climbed up D-III to find the cached equipment.


Mrs Takahashi & Ogura, Press conference - 28 Oct 79

Others arrive KTM 6 Nov by truck. T & D arrive yesterday from TBC at 3700m by helicopter. Caravan left TBC 26 Oct.

Ogura has frostbitten feet and all toes but serious ones only 2 on left foot (not in hospital).

12 Oct - from C4 Col between Snow Peak (not to snow summit) D-II to south side East Ridge of Dhaulagiri II.

13 Oct - from C4 7300m to Dhaulagiri II summit and from D-V C4 (7150m) to Dhaulagiri V summit. 5 members in summit Dhaulagiri II camp and 2 in summit camp of D-5.

14 Oct - 5 to Col camp at between D-II and D-III 7400m and 2 to Col Camp between D-V and D-III 7200m.

15 Oct and 2 meet - 5 from D-II reach D-III summit 10:08 am and go down to Col between D-III and D-V and next 2 others from D-II at col between Dhaulagiri V. 2 to Dhaulagiri III and thence to camp on col between D-II and D-III. When met, prayed for 2 dead Japanese climbers, friends who died Jan 1978 in Japan and 1978 Dhaulagiri I Germans expedition. At 1:30 pm in good health - stayed together 1 hour.

16 Oct - 5 from Dhaulagiri II to Dhaulagiri V at 11:30 am and 4 then to C3 2:00 pm (planned spend that night on summit but got top early). 2 from D-V to D-II summit 5:30 pm and to C4 7800m at 9:00 pm.

D-II party 5 men at BC 17 Oct
D-V party 2 men at BC 18 Oct

Slow because Ogura's frostbite which got 15th night between D-III and D-II in camp. Ogura not brought down between D-II and D-III.

17 Japanese climbers only - other 3 TV cameraman only to C1's + 20 Sherpas above BC and 18 above C1.

D-II to D-V 6 km as crow flies - entire route BC to BC = 35 km looking from below, route looks mostly level but actual climbing up and down constantly.

D-III completely independant peak, not flat route from D-II to D-III as it appeared.

All 17 Japanese climbers reached at least 1 summit.

Even on 14 Oct not sure success because need 2 more days good weather and weather could change.

Difficult to calculate days required to get meeting at schedule near D-III.
D-II and D-V climbed 7-9 times and D-III 8 times.
Sherpa to D-III brought oxygen to Ogura.
Some Japanese and Sherpas used oxygen for sleeping in top camps - 12 bottles used.

"I couldn't do it because I sprained right ankle" 28 Aug near Depot Camp 4300m. Mrs. T. did not do traverse.

First traverse of 3 Peaks in all Himalayas.

C2 D-V avalanches hit 3 times and broke tents and carried away equipment

Routes:

5 up south side of East Ridge of Dhaulagiri II and down South Ridge
- up NE Ridge of D-III and down SW Ridge of D-III

No peak between D-III and D-V

Then 5 up NE Ridge D-V and down SE Ridge D-V to summit White Peak by its NW Ridge and down East Face.

Oct 12
party of 5 - to D-II C4
2 -

Oct 13
party of 5 - to summit D-II
2 - to summit D-V

Oct 14
party of 5 - col between D-II and C3
2 - col between D-V and D-III

Oct 15
party of 5 - D-III summit to col
2 - D-III summit and col

Oct 16
party of 5 - D-V summit and C3 and C4
2 - D-II summit and C4


Sharma Tourism Ministry - 16 Oct 79

4 members:
Koga Yukio
Araki Shigetsugu
Chiba Takayoshi
Nezu Koji

Climbed Dhaulagiri II 8 Oct. Started climbing from 7200m C4 in am and reached top at 10:40 am; stayed on top 1/2 hour and returned to C4 same day.

9 Oct 3 Sherpas also reached summit of Dhaulagiri II from C4:
Lhakpa Norbu, 23, Namche
Ang Tsering, 24
Gyalgen Sherpa, 28, Ramechap

Two of other Japanese:
Ogura Shigeta
Okura Yoshitani

Climbed Dhaulagiri V on 9 Oct reached summit 5:30 pm from C4
from their C4 at 7050m, both C4's established on 5 Oct

Dhaulagiri II and V summiters would start traversing mountain very soon, as of 9 Oct evening LO message. Leader says basically same with no new details.


Mrs Takahashi - 7 Aug 79

10 members already in Pokhara
10 in KTM and these to Pokhara tomorrow
All 20 and 300 porters leave Pokhara 10 Aug

Entire route = about 25 km; this longest route planned in Nepal. In 1975 had thought to traverse Dhaulagiri IV to V, but this meant 2 BC's and no contact; this would be 23 km.

We wish teams will go entire route but may be not possible; one may go only to D-V and make attack and go back; other team maybe to II, III and V and BC.

"If weather is good" I think we have power but if weather is bad, we can't do entire route by at least Dhaulgiri II team.

"I like rock climbing and my club only 2 or 3 women and I didn't have chance to climb with other women." This why no women members.

Husband's parents look after daughter while Mrs T away; they are retired; Mrs T's parents working; "I like climbing more than job"; her husband still climbs but like his job better than climbing.

This first Japanese expedition with woman leader and all members men.


Ogura & Wada - 31 July 79

2 porters:
1) BC -> East Ridge of White Peak to summit White Peak to summit Dhaulagiri V to flat summit of point 7249 to summit Dhaulagiri II.
2) BC to Snow Peak South Face (not to summit) to Dhaulagiri II and thence south.

Plans is for 2 teams to pass at Dhaulagiri III. Each party has option to descend by our route or by other's route; if do latter, one party must wait and escort other.

4 members in KTM - arrived 20 July.
15 more arrive 31 July
Leader arrive 5 Aug
Leave KTM 6 Aug except leader and 3 TV film about 8 Aug.
All leave Pokhara about 8 Aug - 15 days to TBC at 3900m
Route up Dhaulagiri V = same South Ridge as successful Spr 1975 expedition (but new route for party from north).

Route up Dhaulagiri II = same East Ridge (but new route for part from south) as successful Spr 1978 expedition.

Route on Dhaulagiri III - new route
C5's one last camps for climbing Dhaulagiri V and II; C5 for Dhaulagiri V 7500m and for D-II little higher.
C6's same altitude as C5's.

Arrive TBC about 23 Aug, arrive BC 27 Aug
1st party atop white Peak after 7 days from BC established
1st party atop Snow Peak 8-9 days after BC established

Dhaulagiri V - 40 days from BC established
Dhaulagiri II - 42 days from BC "
Dhaulagiri III - 47 days from BC "

By each party on same day from separate attack camps: AC from south 7200m
thus Dhaulagiri III in mid-Oct.

Between Dhaulagiri V and III is a col at 7100m; from Col to Dhaula III there is about 60-degree rock face; this the most difficult part of climbing.

15 climbing members including leader, others = 3 film team

300 porters Pokhara->TBC
17 H-A Sherpas including 2 Sirdars and 6 others to C2's = 23 Sherpas above BC. Sirdars Mingma Tenzing and Lhakpa Tenzing.

Oxygen for sleeping at highest camps, C6's and AC's [advance camps]; no climbing oxygen. Have total 20 bottles.