원정 개요

Messner - 19 March 82

Messner does not believe Saleki reached summit of Cho Oyu in 1979, but he surely was on the mountain. Chinese told Messner they got him.


Mischa Saleki - 16 Nov 79

Saleki went alone across Nangpa La and then to Cho Oyu in 1977 Spring to W Ridge. Reached about 6800m under W Ridge and then fell 12m and cut left wrist and stopped.

This autumn again alone on main W Ridge. Crossed Nangpa La at end of Sept and in 10 days was on summit after ferrying loads by different approach to Ridge, more west than in 1977. Icefall to surmount and on first try had hallucination of dead German and fled, breaking crampon in process, but went up again and was successful on top sometime between 10 and 13 Oct. Very bad weather during descent but found his tent then having left camp, lost his way and forgets this period but actually spent 7 days in confusion. Then met man on yak who pointed to him way to villages where Chinese police took him in charge. Had no food for 7 days and found Chinese giving him oxygen. 4 weeks in clinic including being taken to Lhasa.

Goes to solo Broad Peak next June.

Has made many films.

Climbed Tirch Mir with Don Whillans (Schmatz party also on Tirich Mir at same time).