원정 개요

Shohei Wada - 7 Jan 80
Member 1980 Japan Everest Expedition

North side of Everest reconnaissance
Last autumn:

9 Japanese members of whom 8 were climbers plus about 10 Chinese assistant climbers. Routes reconnoitered were:

1. Main Rongbuk Glacier to N Face
2. East Rongbuk Glacier to NE Ridge

in 2 separate parties.

1st route, party reached 6500m. Very difficult to find a camp site on N Face at 6000-6500m and Chinese porters will have trouble in Spring attempt with steep technical parts. Above 6500m face is not so steep. No accidents during recce of this route.

On 2nd route, did not reach N Col. Were struck by avalanche at c6800m while making route. 6 climbers were in this party, climbing improved on gentle slope when avalanche hit. 1 Japanese and 3 Chinese swept down 200m by avalanche. 1 Japanese, Ryoten Hasegawa, Churen Himal summiter on Meiji University expedition, had 6 ribs broken. 3 Chinese killed (1 Chinese was well-known Han Chinese mountaineer who had gone to 8500m on Everest in 1975).

Wada was not on 1979 recce.


Hasihua, Correspondent - 2 Dec 79

3 Chinese assistants (including 1 Tibetan) died in an avalanche at North Col of Everest in Oct on Sino-Japanese recce.