원정 개요

Kozuki, et al - 11 Nov 79

No C4. High point was little below 6000m on 25 Oct - no higher because icefall and seracs and no way around. Approach route was east from Choya and north of ridge from Pangbu Khola. Climbing route was West Face.

High point reached by 8 members: all climbing members except Nishimoto & Nishimura.

If came 1 month earlier could have succeeded; then seracs condition better. After 20 Oct icefall had many ice blocks falling.

All arrived KTM 5 Nov - leader sick from altitude and went to Japan quickly.
No accidents or frostbite.

Between 5000 and 5400m overhanging face.


Izutsu, Kawasaki & Tsubota - 6 Sept 79

6 members in KTM now; 6 members arrive 23 Sept.

12 (2 BC only)
Cargo now in BKK. 3-4 days after arriving KTM, 4 go to Pokhara. Do not wait for other 6.

8 days from Pokhara with 60-80 porters to BC via Pangbu Khola (or Chokhopani Khola) - BC due west of Central Peak at 3900m
route = NW Ridge
maybe 5 camps above BC:

C1 - 4300m
C2 - 4800m
C3 - 5500m
C4 - 6000m
C5 - 6500m
4 weeks BC to summit so about end of October
4 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Pemba Norbu

Oxygen medical only