원정 개요

This mountain previously known as Ganesh II until re-surveyed in early 1990's.

Kitahara, ex-helicopter - 25 Oct 79

Summit
20 Oct - Ogura again
Maeda
Eguchi
Mingma Tenzing

21 Oct Kitahara and Yoko

Leader BC all the time
Kitahara little sick; others leave 26 BC and arrive 1 Nov.
Climbed North Face; others route from C2 very difficult and changed route making:
New C2 - 5700m
C3 - 6100m
C4 - 6500m

1st and 2nd parties to top from C4, 3rd from C3.


Otsu - 17 Oct 79

North Face Ganesh III instead of East Ridge. Made C3 already and hope for summit end Oct.


Ogura - 24 Aug 79

All 6 Japanese members now in KTM. Kuroda goes to Japan 25 Aug, so not member of climbing team; only advance party.

2 Nepalese members:
Mingma Tenzing
Summit 1978 Tilicho, Japan
C5 1977 Annapurna I, Dutch

Will use oxygen for sleeping in C3; but not for climbing
50 days BC to summit because want all members to reach and summit
10 days approach march
Kuroda's information of 12 Aug correct otherwise


Kuroda - 12 Aug 79

2 arrive 11 Aug; others arrive 22 Aug.
Leave 1 Sept by road to Trisuli Bazar; leave Trisuli 2 Sept
Arrive BC after 9 days with 120 porters

BC on Sangjung Glacier at 4700m
Route = SE Ridge

Spr 1973 "trial expedition" led by Ogura went to Sangjung Glacier and reached SE Ridge Col at 6000m on trekking-recce climb will climb from glacier to col and thence up ridge.

3 camps above with C3 at about 6500m. C2 at Col most difficult part:
We have many avalanches below Col from both sides at 7000m rock knife-ridge

Reach summit after 50 days from BC arrival on 10 Sept. Expedition student members, very young, 1st time in Nepal, not professional. "Safety climbing we hope so we climb up only five days."

6 Japanese members and 2 Nepalese (Sherpa) members and 1 sirdar Pasang and 5 HA Sherpa porters.

Oxygen, maybe only medical but if dangerous, also sleeping; only 4-5 bottles: 1-2 at BC, rest at col.