원정 개요

Takeda - 17 Oct 79

On SE Face Nilgiri North: Above C2 very dangerous glacier. Reached 5900m (highest point) 29 Sept by both members.

Sherpas only carrying loads, not route making.
C2 at bottom of very different glacier; icefall very broken and dangerous.

30 Sept decided not possible to go up this route; even with more members too dangerous.


Takeda - 23 Aug 79

Route = SE Face (new route)
Approach from Lete to Thulobugin; to BC on glacier east of Nilgiri.

Arrived KTM 21 Aug. Leave 27 Aug and begin caravan 29 Aug with 35-45 porters about 11 days to BC

1 H-A Sherpa
Oxygen medical only

BC at 4200m; two camps above and maybe biv.
C2, want it at 6000m but perhaps not possible that high.
Summit 13-15 Oct (35 days climbing).