원정 개요

Okazaki - 26 Nov 79

All members well and returned to KTM. Climbed South Main Peak (North Main Peak not on list and anyway not so distinct).

Route = NW Ridge of South Main Peak from Col east of Point 20,600 on Tyson map. Col is very narrow so C2 above it on the ridge. C3 just before North Peak and traversed across in of North Peak's top to South Main Peak.

BC was on Jagdula Khola - 1st expedition in this valley
ABC on glacier - big icefall above ABC
One member (Yada) some frostbite but not serious
3 members to summit on expedition's last chance because weather getting worse and worse with strong cold winds.

On day before summit success, on 3 Nov Matsunaga, Takasaki, Yada and Ang Temba made first summit attempt but strong winds and gave up after making only 3 pitches and Yada got finger frostbitten; returned to C3 and made successful attempt next day, Yada included.

Approach route to BC very difficult - Jagdula Khola almost impossible gorge to follow (Isherwood followed it 1st time). First time any big party with porters went in there. Villagers didn't know route themselves. Japanese also first to follow Jagdula Khola by left fork (Isherwood took right fork) to their BC site.


Okazaki - 22 Aug 79

3 arrived 18th - leader and 2 more came on 1 Sept.
Approach route same as Isherwood's up Jagdula Khola.
Really want to climb Hanging Glacier Peak; if must climb Kangiroba Main will climb NW Ridge from Col and Main Peak.
Leave KTM about 15 Sept by air to Jumla in 2 charters by Otter (must take all food from KTM).
4 Sherpas above BC including sirdar (not decided who).
4 camps above BC with C4 about 6300m (BC at 4000m) on Kanjiroba Main Pk.
Oxygen for medical only
About 4 weeks BC to summit


Okazaki - 4 Sept 79

Ministry says must climb Kanjiroba Main Peak. Will try NW Ridge, but have permission to attempt other route if this one too dangerous.

All remaining members arrived 1 Sept and hope to leave about 15 Sept.