원정 개요

Skarja - 7 May 2013

A pulley was used to convey about 5000 kg of supplies 200m up onto the Lho La. It worked very well where they had it, but the Americans' effort was in an unfavorable place where the loads constantly swung against the rock face, which is why they stopped using it.


Kunaver - 4 Sept 79

Yugo Everest Expedition's route: From Lho La, went left onto north side of W Shoulder. At highest part of W Ridge, 1st summit team followed ridge all the way up to summit and down via Hornbein Couloir. 2nd team traversed slightly left onto face going up because Ang Phu would not have managed a difficult overhang; also down via Hornbein Couloir.

Expedition had no indication of any HMG displeasure at their having been on North Face.


Skarja - 25 May 79

1st attempt for summit [Groselj and Manfreda] did not find right route and had oxygen problem; they were those who came to KTM with frostbite. 2nd group [Podbevsek and Robas] also had trouble finding correct route.

Used Hornbein Couloir in descent because bad weather in afternoon including fog required use of easier route; also lack of fixed rope high on ridge.

3 or 4 May were ready to make 1st attempt but very strong wind 150 km/hr and -40 degrees C temperature.


Groselj & Manfreda - 18 May 79

Groselj, Manfreda, Vavken arrived today by helicopter. Manfreda (3 fingers) and Groselj (5 toes) and doctor Ok; stay in KTM 2-3 days and in Delhi 2-3 days.

Frostbite: 1st attempt ascent started from C5 on 10 May; wall very hard and Groselj had oxygen trouble. Manfreda had to go without oxygen because so difficult, could have no load. Put in fixed rope which was key to success 3 days later.

C5 established 9 May at 8100m. No C6 at all.

13 May Zaplotnik and Stremfelj to summit from C5 and down via Hornbein Colouir because no fixed ropes above C4 at 9:30 pm. Left C5 going up at 5:30 am; summit at 1:51 pm; are Ok, no frostbite.

15 May from C5 3 men at 5:00 am; on top about 2:20 pm and also down via colouir; biv that night at 8000m in colouir; stopped descent about 9:00 pm because of snowstorm and wind.

16 May about 5 am again began descent. 3rd team for summit [Bergant, Kotnik and Matijevec] went to help this 2nd group; from C5 up and then down to Couloir and met at 6:00-7:00 am; summiters very tired but not frostbitten. Bozic and Belak reached C4 about 12 noon with 3 helpers. When 2 parties met, helpers went to shake hands in congrats, Ang Phu made a mis-step, fell 20m, lost ice axe, unable to stop himself and fell 2000m down Main Rongbuk Glacier from 8000m.

17 May from C1 4 Sherpas and 3 Yugoslavia found body in pieces and Sherpas put pieces in crevasse. 7 men went to site together which is 1-1/2 km east of Lho La. Ang Phu's family at BC today saying Yugoslavia killed him.

1st summit team were actually 3rd planned to - on 11 May two members were 1st but got no where really.


Groselj & Manfreda - 18 May 79

Ang Phu and 1 Yugoslav had just emerged from bottom of Hornbein's Couloir at about 8000m when met by helpers and he fell - other Yudoslav still in it.

Yugoslavia followed AMME 1963 West Ridge route all the way from to C4 which was same place as US C4.

Groselj and Manfreda put in same fixed rope above C5, but not enough fixed rope above C5 for safe descent. Bad weather about 11 May was believed to be monsoon (actually was cyclone in Bay of Bengal) so expedition thought had no time to put in fixed rope.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 16 May 79

Yesterday's 3 summiters could not reach C4 last night because of bad weather and made temporary camp.

At 8:00 am today 2 Yugoslavs reached C4 but at 7600m, just above C4 and just few minutes before 8:00 am, Ang Phu slipped and was not found as of 12:30 pm; still searching for him. Expedition probably stopped climbing.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 13 May 79

Zaplotnik and Stremfelj reached summit. Started at 5 am 13 May from C6 8700m and on top 13:15 hours. Coming down slowly but steadily as of 4:30 pm because of high wind.

1st 2 groups failed to reach top: names and reasons not known. 4th group tomorrow.


AXT - 10 May 79

Yesterday 5 men at C5 at about 8200m and hoped to try today for top from C5.
West Ridge best: no Icefall and see both Nepal and Tibet are right on the West Ridge.

Yugoslavs apparently first onto Lho La from Nepalese side.

From Tibetan side:
1921 - George Leigh Mallary and George Bullock recce
1935 - Eric Shipton and LV Bryant; HW Tilman and EHL Wigram also recce


Tone Skarja - 20 Feb 79

True West Ridge route

BC usual site
C1 on East Ridge of Khumbutse 6050m (last 300m much loads up)
C2 on ridge of West Shoulder 6600m
C3 top of West Shoulder 7200m
C4 on Everest on West Ridge 7400m, 1-1/2 km from C3
C5 high on West Ridge 8000m
C6 West Ridge 8500m
Total route 10 km; about 5 km from where shoulder joins Everest proper.

Leave KTM 3 March
Arrive Pheriche 25 March
Arrive BC 31 March
6 weeks to summit, top about 15-25 May

Technically most difficult BC to C1; on West Shoulder new snow avalanching; again technical difficult C4 to C5
25 climbers including doctors and 5 photographers and journalists
20 Sherpas
Use oxygen above C4.