원정 개요

Galfy & Chudy

route= West Ridge to NW Ridge

1st summit attempt by 4 members on 16 May and reached 7450m on face to right of West Ridge. Reached this at 2:00 pm and above 120m hard rock climbing at Grade V A.

2nd and 3rd attempts followed but also unsuccessful: 2nd because 1 member frostbitten and 3rd because very cold and strong wind. Then abandoned climbing because no more food.

No accidents or serious frostbite. Only serious illness was kitchen boy Sherpa who died of TB and pneumonia.


Galfy & Chudy 30 March 79

route = West (NW) Ridge = new route

BC on Yamatari Glacier at 4400-4500m
10 days to BC ex-Dharan with 125 porters. Leave Bhairawa to Taplejung 3 April and established BC about 10 April. At least 5 high camps.

Most difficult to reach pass at 6000-6200m - mixed rock and ice.
Summit "should be" mid-May.

3 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Ang Temba (same as on Makalu).
No oxygen for climbing or sleeping.