원정 개요

Szafirski & Dr Koriszuski - 22 May 79

1st part of route same as Nairz and Manaslu Expedition to about 5600m very difficult (5 grade) and artificial climbing. At 5600m Poles had C1. 2000 ft of rocky buttress to C1. This only safe way then to ridges which is perhaps properly called W Spur. 5 peaks - Poles had trouble deciding which highest. If Wanatabe and Sherpa in 1970 reached highest, it is edge of human possibility. Very difficult rock from E at high altitude. Japanese highest camp 7200m and similar climbing.

Poles' attack for C3 at 5 am amd returned from sumit 7:30 pm - young, very strong men. On top 3:27 pm. They had to put some fixed ropes on route above C3 (others had also done same too earlier) - was Pawlikowski and Gajewski on 8th. No 2nd attack is possible because Berbeka had same frostbite (is healing).

When reached C3 so tired unable to go further in dark thru seracs, so Szafirski and Malinowski went down to C2 and not in position to go to top. 2 members descended in full moonlight.

Put BC very low and needed ABC because porters struck and no Sherpas to ferry loads; members ferried.


Szafirski - 25 March 79

Route = W Face - middle of face, not so far south as Japanese in 1974, but first will do recce to see whether more northern approach is easier. Middle of face gives only narrow area of safe route for rest of face menaced by seracs.

Leave after 2 days by road to pokhara and from Pokhara up Marshyangdi with 50-60 porters (1400 kg) to BC in 10 days on Tulagi Glacier (where Austrian Manaslu had their BC) at about 4500m. Then about 3000m of West Wall with one camp after first difficult rock and ice part of route at about 6000m: fixed one safe place for a camp where can stay 1 to even 3 weeks if necessary. From this camp, maybe one or two bivs to summit. Summit 10-15th May. Classic Himalayan method impossible for this wall.

No Sherpas above BC.
No oxygen for climbing or sleeping, in fact none for medical.