원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 at normal site
C2 at top of Dutch Rib at normal C3 site
High point at C2.

Carried all loads to ABC over 4 days and no one stayed at BC except liaison officer and cook. In climbs found too many crevasses at start of normal route; tried to climb NE Buttress and gained 200m on steep ice face on 9 Dec to 6100m and then big ice-rock-snow avalanche hit (one snow hit Ngati) so abandoned this line (Kim In-Hyem, Um, Ngati, Kami and Sarki Sherpa reached this point).

So tried N Face (Dutch Rib) (many avalanches coming down left and right side and sometimes hit climbers before Rib); reached C2 (normal C3) but not above it because many avalanches some of which came from big serac just above C2: serac was "in very bad condition." Rib also bad condition with rock and ice mixed with no snow; now abandoned climb.