원정 개요

(Altitudes given by Spaniards.)

Austin, French Charge - 26 Aug 79

Account given by expedition in Kathmandu was not correct. What actually happened was doctor (Sabarly), inexperienced in such mountaineering and on drugs, died first. Pemba Sherpa died trying to rescue him. Professional guide (Poumailloux) died of exhaustion bringing Saudan's girl-friend Valencot down.


21 May 79

Saudan, Valencot and Ollagnier left Nepal 21 May; Valencot's frostbite especially bad and danger of infection here great.

According to Miss Spaha, they had no food for 3 days. 2 members are still on the mountain at 5000m. LO has kept expedition film at Jomsom, refusing to release it to expedition.


Austin, French Embassy - 19 May 79

Group of 6 climbers from Dhaulagiri expedition reached 7600m NE Ridge on 12th May and preparing for find assault when taken by very bad weather about 250 km/hr and very heavy snowstorms so they were blocked in camp.

During night of 13/14 May about 00:30 hrs, avalanche took away 2 tents from highest camp and 2 climbers. Poumailloux (Mt Guide) and Dr Sabarly, were swept down from 7600m at least 2000m straight down.

Early hours of am 14th May the four left who had taken shelter under rock, started descending by fixed ropes left by Spaniards. At 11:00 am 14th May another snowstorm with very high wind and Pemba disappeared: apparently died of fall due to exhaustion - was last man in descent and don't know exactly but ice ax left standing in snow at about 7300-7500m at very difficult part of route from C5. Saudan, Ollagnier, Ms Valencot (all French) took 4 days to BC. Sherpas from BC to help them after Ollagnier reached BC alone but fingers frostbitten BC alone. Saudan and Ms Valencot all fingers frostbitten could not tie ropes and they waited 5760m. Saudan and Ms Valencot are suffering from very deep frostbite fingers, feet and noses. Admitted to Santa Bhawan and took 1 week to know how much they say they were in perfect condition and if no sudden change in weather would have all 6 would have reached summit and Saudan skied down.

Ms Valencot cannot speak much because exhausted and frostbite in nose and mouth area and all toes and fingers. Saudan did not realize his feet frostbitten: one is badly frozen.

Saudan lucky to survive because of loss of overboot, etc.