원정 개요

Josef Mayerl - 15 May 79

W Ridge 2-1/2 km long, very steep (70 degrees) and very dangerous. C5 last camp: C4 starts last part up difficult ridge.

Herbert Obernosterer fell while descending from C5 to C4, where no fixed rope (had put in total 3000m fixed rope above and below). He fell 2000m on north wall when one crampon caught on 2 May. 4 members made C5 and went down same day, 2 May, to C4 and Obernosterer fell 7:30 pm during their descent. Others were: Neumair, Girstmair and Gassler.

3 May all members in C1 and decide finish expedition because "when one man dead, there is no success for expedition."

4 May brought corpse to C1 where made grave. Expedition would have reached summit on 6 or 7 May if continued; no further problems.

Gassler: Obernosterer descending on 2 May from C5 to C4 and came to part where was no fixed rope. He was tired and he fell, at first along ridge down which was climbing - about 10-15 meters he fell here, towards Neumair who was, ahead of him (Gassler behind Obernosterer). Neumair tried to catch him but only touched his arm before Obernosterer plunged down North Wall of the ridge.

Others reached C4 on 2 May and C1 on 3 May. On 4 May went from C1 and brought body to C1 for burial.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 7 May 79

Herbert Obernosterer of Lienz slipped and fell down about 2000m North Wall while going from C4 to C3 on 2 May according LO.

Obernosterer, Herbert
Neumair, Hermann
Girstmair, Siegfried
Gassler, Oswald

established C4 6500m, 2 May.

Obernosterer not found as on 3 May and members presume him dead; intensive search going on and attempt to climb has been abandoned.


Mayerl via Bernard - 23 March 79

Vigin peak. Route via West Ridge but not decided whether from north or south; very steep ridge so very difficult. North side ice and snow and on south unstable rock.

Ganturer expedition not considered to have been on Fang. Wanted to climb via South Ridge but did not get far.

Leave KTM 24 or 25 March, probably all together - perhaps 2 or 3 stay in KTM few days to get permit for Galeti Khola as well as Mristi Khola which will already have.

If BC in Mristi Khola - 12 days at BC; in Galeti Khola 7-8 days - 110 porters ex-Pokhara.

6-8 weeks to climb, so summit last half May will go onto ridge near point 18,605 ft (5670m) because closer to Fang is hanging glacier which can avalanche on north side. Will also get onto ridge near point 18,605 even if climb from south side.

About 4 high camps with C2 the first on the West Ridge.
About 4 km from point 18,605 to Fang summit
5 HA Sherpas including sirdar Ang Chopal
No oxygen for climbing or sleeping, 3-5 bottles for medical only.