원정 개요

Pons - 18 May 79

Started for summit 3:00 am on May 12; returned 5:00 pm in C5; on top at 2:00 pm 5 men together on NE Ridge.

Wind some what strong and very cold; one man slight frostbite.
No accident, no illness

Only 1 team to summit. 2nd team 4 more members ready, but next day very bad weather. 1st team waited 2 nights for wind to abate before going to top without oxygen that day; used very little 2 nights before attempt, none afterwards.

5 to summit on 12 May: Aldaya, Garayoa, Plaza, Pons and Ang Rita Sherpa
All members well; all in BC who not already in KTM.


Massons - 13 May 79

Juan Massons and Garreta, left BC 4 May and arrive KTM today.
C3 - 6600m
C4 - 3 May - 7180m
On NE Ridge - Spain

Said Saudan could come after Spaniards, Spaniards making route and French right along behind 1 hour later - for summit, French can come only 1/2 hour later, really together.

Lot of snow on top of mountain 5 May. Garreta and Bromana leave KTM soon as possible Massons and Colomer maybe 24 May or before rest of members leave Nepal 31 May.

After 3-4 persons in 1 party go to top 10-15 May


Telexes from Spanish Dhaulagiri to Spain:

C3 established at 6630m on 20 April; Dhaulagiri is very difficult; wind tore tents; -25 degrees.

C4 established at 718 m on 2 May after 12 hours intensive work installing the camp; great with cold and wind. Intend to attack summit 10-15 May. Health and morale of all are good.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Ministry of Tourism - 19 April 79

HMG has sent letters Spain and Swiss leaders and LO's.

Saudan must climb up only NW Ridge or NE Face but not NE Ridge which is for Spanish only; otherwise will take action against Saudan and his team.


Pons - 18 March 79

20 March - 1 Sherpa and 2 members to Bhairava
21 March - all others to Pokhara
24 March - all leave Pokhara
8 April - arrive 1st difficult point of glacier
12 April - arrive BC at 4700m
24 April - C1 and C2 established
3 May - C3 and C4 established
5-12 May - C5 (at about 7600m) and summit attack

15 May - latest date for summit
15-20 May - back to BC
22 May - leave BC
3-4 June - latest date of arrival KTM

18 members - Massons and Garreta arrive KTM 23 March
1 sirdar - Sonam Girme
4 HA Sherpas
2 kitchen
2 mailrunners
6 high porters (local)
300 coolies from Pokhara - 7500 kg baggage
12 oxygen only medical and perhaps sleeping in highest camp

Spaniards have climbed following 8000m peaks:
Annapurna East
Manaslu
Makalu
(Kangchenjunga Central Smt)


Pons - 15 March 79

Approach via Myagdi Khola to BC at 4700m up Glacier at top of it; NE Ridge route on mountain. Not going via Kali Gandaki because Dhampus Pass too full of snow (maybe return via Kali Gandaki).