원정 개요

Massarotto - 3 June 79

15 May stopped climbing in C3. 5 days in C3, no good weather with 3 avalanches. C3 and C4 taken away by avalanche 16 May. Highest point 7500m 1 May.

45 days of expedition, only 15 days good weather.

Route = East Ridge: very difficult and much snow avalanching at night; route is possible.


De Savorgnani - 8 May 79

De Savorgnani and Terrin arrive today by army helicopter from BC. Little avalanche hit 2 members sleeping in C4 and we think not dangerous for avalanche, but this night snow fell and almost vertical spot where made place for 1 tent with only 2 men.

5 May these 2 men and 2 Sherpas made C4 at 7200m. Sherpas went down and could not find way to C3 because cloud and strong wind. Spent night out same night but they Ok.

Frostbite all fingers; toes only little frostbite but fingers all black.

East Ridge route - leader: would have reached summit if no avalanche. Today 5 men (all except Dr) woule be on summit.

All now in BC, shaken but will go up. Summit after 1 week. No more camps and no oxygen at all. Avalanche hit at 8:00 pm while preparing to sleep; tent destroyed by their escaping.

Want to go to Innsbruck quickly for best treatment.


Massaroto & De Savorgnani - 7 March 79

Same route as 1977 autumn French. 6 members, all in KTM. Leave KTM after cargo arrives, perhaps after one week.

BC at about 5000m or more, above French BC.

French C1 at 5600m destroyed by avalanche, so C1 also higher at 6000m. From there must climb quickly to ridge at 6200m and C2 above this; where will decide only when on the spot. Above there, if weather is good, only bivouacs above C2 climbing problem technically at pinnacle at 7895m. Must turn pinnacle quickly, then 1 km of route to summit which is at very high altitude.
From BC to summit no more than 4 weeks; problem is acclimatization.
4 Sherpas above BC incl sirdar Ang Dorje (Everest 1978 autumn without oxygen).
No oxygen for climbing or sleeping if possible; only 6 bottles with expedition.