원정 개요

Dr. Sakono - 8 May 79

Okada altitude sickness but now OK - is at SYB [Shyangboche] with expedition baggage. Okano team climbed 6300m on 26th April, but Okada ill at 6100m biv so expedition cannot go to top. All members started down to BC 27th April. No fixed ropes above 5700m, so all members had to help him down.

Had used 1500m fixed rope already and had none left. Needed about 1000m more to fix rope to summit. No C2 - climbed Alpine style above C1 and biv at 5700m. Fixed rope above 5600 (removing it from lower and at 5900m 23 April, 6100m 24-25 April and 26 April. Reached 6300m on 26th but no biv. All reached 5900m biv on 27th and to 5000 C1 on 28th and 29th BC.

At BC recieved message re-Kangtega all except Okado and Sherpa and LO to SYB 30 April for helicopter (which actually had evacuated Kangtega on 28th). 30th evening learned helicopter evacuation taken place and 1 May returned to BC and discussed whether to climb again but have no time: only 20 days food and fuel plus one member ill.

N Face route very difficult: above C1 very steep and no campsites. Face about 1600m high - face is possible to climb: 6300m high point is just at big serac = just below top of face - about 200m more to E Ridge. On 26th thought summit success sure, but then Okada became ill. No other illness, no accidents or frostbite.

Hanging glacier safe? "Maybe so."

Hindo and Takeuchi leave Nepal 8 May, Yuda 11 May, Suzuki with Yuda and also Masumaga.

Okada and Okomo still in SYB so [don't] know departure. Sakano in KTM about 1 week more.


Suzuki - 16 March 79

12 March all members both expeditions in KTM 27 March all go to Lukla by air. Make 2 BC's
Thamserku - Sangaku Doshikai
Route = N Face
BC 4000m on Phuki glacier c31 March
2 high camps - C2 6000m
Summit all members after 3 weeks climbing; 1 Sherpa only BC
Very steep rock and ice mixed.


From my [EAH] file:

In spring 1979 expedition reached 6300m on 26 April (above 2nd biv made at 6100m on 24 April), then member Noboru Okada became seriously ill from altitude and all others had to take him down very steep face. Then at BC found note asking them to help evacuate injured man on Kangtega.