원정 개요

Skip Harner - 11 Nov 79

Got to 20,000 ft on S Ridge about 1st or 2nd Nov. High camp at 19,700 ft on E Ridge. Then 500 ft ice wall above 20,000 ft negotiable but only 3 members left, not enough support for safety. Went to base of ice wall; had no fixed rope; left above ice wall looked straightforward. Snowed every day.


St. Onge - 4 Nov 79

St. Onge got altitude sickness, waited a week, didn't get better enough to be able join climb and left expedition 27th Oct. Other 3 climbing still. Hard part overcame and "just matter of time" till they'd get to summit by second route.


Stacy Standley - 29 Oct 79

Yager, Miller and Standley came to KTM yesterday, left expedition 25 Oct. Other 4 trying alpine-style attempt via 2nd route. Had high camp at 14,500-15,000 ft on east side of SW Ridge (made camp on 22 or 23 Oct) and 4 were at this camp on 25th and Sherpas moving gear over to support ridge attempt. Trying to do camp to summit and back in 10 days - top 3-4 Nov. If they were out the icefall problem, it might go.

BC hit by avalanche blast (ice cloud) but no very serious damage. On 23 Oct Standley and Miller left because ran out of time. Yager concerned about rafting.