원정 개요

Aoki - 16 May 79

Route = SE Ridge - few pitches rather difficult above C3 to top of SE Ridge at South Shoulder of Central peak (on ice). South Shoulder = beginning of South Ridge on North-South main ridge.

1st group on top 11:30 am 30 April
2nd group on top 10:30 am 1 May

1st group left C3 and returned same day.

2nd group also started from C3 on 30 April. Moved more slowly because carrying biv tent, sleeping bags and food. Biv that night at about 6500m and on 1 May went to top then biv at about 6200m at 8:00 pm (Aoki got some frostbite during 2nd biv night). Strong wind at summit but not at all at biv sites.

No accidents or illness.


Sakata - 17 March 79

All members now in KTM (arrived yesterday). When leaving not known because baggage is in Bangkok.

Dates of birth:
Aoki 5 Nov 34
Hamada 27 Sept 55
Itano 25 May 49
Yuyama 16 Nov 49


Sakata & Tsuda - 10 March 79

2 members arrived 2 March
5 members will come 16 March

Leave KTM about 20 March - bus/truck Pokhara. Leave Pokhara 21 March with 60 porters. Caravan 15-20 days.

Central Peak, approach via Thulobugin track to khola to West Nilgiri Glacier to south side of SE Ridge to Central Peak's South Ridge.

Arrive BC 5-10 April. 4050m = BC on moraine where 2 Nilgiri glaciers meet
4 high camps, C4 at about 6300-6400m
30 days BC to summit = early May on summit
1 sirdar and 2 Sherpas above BC
No oxygen from Japan; looking for some for medical use, not climbing or sleeping