원정 개요

S. Kimura - 5 May 79

Thamserku has 2 peaks. 1 rock peak is central peak south-southwest of main peak, main peak is little higher.

Expedition 1st reached rock peak 27 April and bivouacked there 27/28 (rock peak = virgin peak).

28 April reached main summit 8:15 am and returned to attack camp same day.

SW Face very difficult; very dangerous knife-ridge snow wall and snow wall at highest parts, so stopped 2nd summit attempt.

Other Thamserku expedition climbed 6200-6300m and then returned to ABC for 3 days very slowly and so thought they had accident but this wrong. Think they are now in KTM.

No accidents, illness, frostbite.

Only Takashi Kimura in KTM; others arrived about 10 May except Satoshi Kimura and 1 other who came earlier and left 3 May for jobs in Japan.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 2 May 79

Thamserku (Japanese Expedition Club)

Summit 28 April by
Satoshi Kimura (who arrived KTM today with another member)
Sakae Hosogai

Summiters arrived C3 at 6300m 26 April 14:45 hours. 27 April left C3 7:00 am and climbed steep rock pillar to biv at 6500m at 16:45 hours. 28 April left biv 7:00 am and reached summit at 8:15 am, left summit at 9:15 am, arrived C3 at 5:00 am. All are well.


Satoshi Kimura - 14 March 79

9 total members: 3 arrive yesterday, others arrive 18 March.
Leave KTM about 20 March by air to Lukla.
Route from SW Face - arrive 25 March BC at 4000m
3 high camps:
C1 (ABC) - 5000m
C2 - 5800m
C3 - 6300m after 3 weeks

No Sherpas above BC; only one kitchen boy.
No oxygen for climbing or sleeping.
Other Japanese this spring from North Face - also very difficult route.

SW Face: will climb via a ridge on this face; very steep: maybe 60%. Face is 1500m high. Mixed rock and ice on ridge.

Hillary team climbed South Ridge, only previous attempt.