원정 개요

Saeki & summiters - 12 May 79

1st summit group on 25th; left C2 and biv at 7000m. Route difficult, so went to top only on 26th.

2nd party left C2 4:00 am and reached top after nearly 8 hours, at 13:50 hours.

Araki's left big toe frostbitten during biv night.

Route = North Ridge: rock ridge difficult from C1 to C2. No C3 because thought no need, only snow face. ABC to C2 long distance - lake traverse. Route more difficult than expected especially C1 to C2 on rock ridge, very sharp and unsound.

All members in KTM and Ok except Araki's toe. No accidents or serious illness.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 2 May 79

Summit via North Ridge 26 April by:
Mingma Tenzing Sherpa
Takashi Araki
Haruo Yamamoto
in 1st group at 7:45 am on top.

Also on 26 April by:
Najang Yonden Sherpa
Yutaka Ohe
in 2nd group at 13:50 hours. Expedition finished. Leaving BC 29 April.


Yakushi & Saeki - 13 March 79

Japan Tomari Himalayan Expedition:

Route = North Ridge (doubts French climbed East Ridge which is Great Barrier).

Approach via Marshyangdi Khola because Kali Gandaki closed. North of Tilicho Lake make BC 4900m at foot of glacier feeding lake from west.

All now in KTM. Arrived 11 March. Leave KTM about 18 March and begin caravan 21-22 March with about 60 porters; 13-14 days to BC, arrive 4 or 5 April.

15 years ago Yakushi did recce.

Only 1 or 2 camps above BC. C1 at about 5500m on ridge and C2 about 6400m also on ridge. Summit about 25 April or 2-3 days later.

3 H-A Sherpas including sirdar Lhakpa Tenzing.
No oxygen for climbing or sleeping.

Most difficult is North Ridge: half snow and half rock; rock in lower part and rock part most difficult because very sharp ridge.