원정 개요

Kubota - 31 May 1979

Want 2 or 3 more summit attacks, but not good weather and many members had altitude sickness and colds. Takita had bad high-altitude sickness on 5 May just as about to go for summit so used much time and many members to carry him down to BC.

Used Dutch route.
No accidents or frostbite.
Good friendship with French.


Yasuo Kubota - 23 Feb 1979

Annapurna I by Dutch-USA women route
6 members now in KTM, others 6 arrive 26 Feb: 9 climbers.
Leave KTM 4 and 6 March by road to Pokhara.
Caravan start 8 March, arrive BC 20 March; 250 porters to BC
BC at 4500m. 5 camps above BC; C5 7500m, little east of US to avoid French team.

Difficult part is C2 to C3 with knife-ridge near C3 and steep and avalanches.
Summit late April or early May.

1 sirdar and 5 high-altitude Sherpas; sirdar Pemba Norbu of Namche.

Oxygen only for sleeping at C5, not for any climbing.

Have brought lot of extra medical supplies for locals during caravan; members in charge, pharmacist as well as doctor.