원정 개요

Hiro Kuraoka - 23 Oct 2019

1979 Japanese KTEG team only to false summit according to Hiro. They had climbed a route in N Face, but not to main summit, but only to false summit (6685m). Other mountaineers from same mountain club say nobody from Japan ever climbed KTEG before. This would make Hiro's team first Japanese to ascend KTEG.


Yuda, Hondo and Takeuchi, Shanta Bhawan Hospital - 29 April 79

Ishibashi and Dr with caravan to Lukla for airplane to KTM; arrived Lukla 4 May. Takeuchi frostbitten toes and feet; Hondo unknown back problem and Yuda broken left leg and left finger.

21 April Yuda slipped at 6400m and he and Hondo fell 40m into crevasse (30m from top to bottom of crevasse) which had one side hard rock and other soft arching move head snow.

3 men sleep night 21/22 April near crevasse - also Hondo but 2 summiters don't know he is there and Yudo in crevasse.

22 April: Kazuo and Ishibashi tried to help Yudo out of crevasse (trouble because of back) and Ishibashi even went down into crevasse to try to help Yuda out but no success; after failed Hondo and Takeuchi went down for help and Ishibashi stayed at crevassse with sleeping bag, biv tent and jacket and food.

Takeuchi arrived BC 22 night and Hondo 23 morning. 24 April Dr and Peniur Sherpa went up to get Yuda out of crevasse, but on 23rd Yuda had climbed out of crevasse and stayed there. Dr and Peniur Sherpa reached crevasse 26 April; they started down and reach C1 27 April, arrived BC and 28 helicopter to KTM.

Yuda had triple shoes and overshoes 1st night; 2nd night got Hondo's sleeping bag.

Fall: 8:00 am 21 April. Yuda out of crevasse 12:00 noon 23 April after 3-1/2 hours effort. Yuda believed 2nd day he would get out of crevasse because 1st night had dream many American men around him.

Could use only right arm and right leg to climb out so used knees to get out of crevasse - going down: sometimes crawled on knees, sometimes pulled by others on biv tents, sometimes on steep ice, on his bottom.

Will climb again: Kangchenjunga Spr '80.

Japanese Dr in KTM estimates leg will need 3 months to heal. Yuda will go to Japan after caravan arrives KTM but Hondo son and Takeuchi with him.


Naoe Sakashita, 32, salesman Tokyo

Takeuchi and Ishibashi summit Kangtega 21 April.

21 April on way from bivouac site at 6000m (above C1) to summit very steep ice face - top man Ishibashi, fixed rope and using this rope Takeuchi followed and after him Hondo and Yuda followed but point not strong and it (point) broke and Hondo and Yuda fell 80m in morning 1 after 1 hours climbing from biv. Other 2 didn't know about fall and went on to summit at 14:10 hours. In afternoon weather not good; near biv site, they again had to biv (without food). Next am 22 April, found other two near biv.

Hondo not so serious and (cracked back bone) can move by himself and he biv by self night of 21/22 Arpil, but Yuda's left leg broken and he stayed in crevasse. He could talk on 22nd.

Ishibashi took care of Yuda and stayed near him night of 22/23 April while Hondo and Takeuchi went to BC to ask for rescue helicopter.

23 April - doctor went up alone probably because Takeuchi slight frostbite in toes and Hondo's back injured. One Sherpa Penuri went up with doctor.

Yuda maybe in crevasse still; other 3 men may try to get him out of crevasse - hope he still alive.

S. went to rally Thamserku to help but they not there; they were above 6000m and will climb to top in 3-4 days.


Sharma, Ministry of Tourism - 25 April 79

21 April - 4 members
1) Kazuo Yuda (leader)
2) Nobuyasu Hondo
3) Makoto Ishibashi
4) Koichi Takeuchi

Started climbing from C1 at 5500m. 2 fell down (Yuda and Hondo) about 40m because fixed rope broke. Other 2 members went to summit from C1. Yuda's leg broken and Hondo's chest received blow. Hondo eating and going down but Yuda as on 23rd was at 6000m on ridge between Kangtega Main and K II and army helicopter to bring back to KTM tomorrow.

BC
ABC
C1, expedition's camps
5-member team - other is doctor in BC.

LO: Yuda could not be taken out of crevasse as of 23rd.
2:10 pm Maruyama & Takeuchi climbed summit on 21st - other 2 while climbing, fell and not possible take Yudo out of snow crevasse, so Ang Temba sent for helicopter.

Hondo 22 April in C1 says Ang Temba
Dr & Takeuchi were to go yesterday to get Yuda out of crevasse

Dr Hiroshi Maruyama
One Sherpa with expedition


Ang Temba - 25 April 79

Helicopter tomorrow for leader's injury from fall in crevasse - other member also injured at 6400m.

Takeuchi and Ishibashi to summit on 21 April

4 to summit : Leader Hondo and Kondo in crevasse and 2 to top
C1 - 5800m = high biv = 6000m
and leader maybe in high biv and may die


Suzuki, Thamserku leader - 16 March 79

BC about 31 March on Hinku Nup Glacier
Route North Face. 2 high camps - C2 6000m
Summit after 3 weeks all members.
1 Sherpa BC only.
Also very steep.
All members will be in KTM 22 March and leave for Lukla 27 March.