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Peter Hillary - 18 Aug 79

Kusum Kanguru Spring 1979

Peter Hillary and Murray Jones started from Jubing through real bamboo jungles up Kusum Drang Valley to approach not from west but area full of very steep ravines which would have taken very great deal of time to get porters and gear there, so abandoned W approach. Very impressive face, this W Face.

Then went up Dudh Koshi to Monjo and then east for approach from north to Kyashar Glacier. Murray Jones and Peter climbed N Rib to about 17,500 ft at what appeared to be site of Japanese C1. Jones and Hillary had very hard shoes on so turned back, then Jones dropped out.

Nena Ritchie then joined Peter and got to 18,000 ft just below Col to NE of Kusum Kanguru. They reached 18,500 ft. Next day when steepness and difficulty increased sharply and they were not strong enough team.

Then did recce with Nena, Nigel Horrocks and Jim Ferrey from Lukla, SW to Zatr Og pass and up Hinku Valley to Lungsamba (Yak header's hut). Climbed up to Lungsamba Glacier at about 18,000 ft looking up glacier (from just below the G on the Schneider map) up SE Face.