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Wells - 8 June 79

3 days out, he fell in boulder rock field in river area and injured knee and couldn't continue with expedition.

BC on 4th May at 13,000 ft due south of S Ridge of Api and ENE of point 6250.

From BC 2-3 miles for ferrying loads to a dump which became C1 at 15,000 ft SW of Nampa Peak. C2 1000 ft below col west of Nampa at 17,000 ft on about 11th May. Daily snowfall of 2-3 inches except 2 clear days after arrival at BC on 4 May. At C2 had heavier snowfall on 20th May in severe storm. Got onto col above C2 and put camp there at about 18,000 ft in tent and snow cave on 22 May. From C3 started work on W Ridge. Went to maximum altitude of 18,500 ft east along ridge in next couple of days.

Serious climbing ahead to 20,000 ft and stopped climbing because ran out of time. Last day of upward was on 24 May when storm came in and ended idea of ascent 25th. If had had time, would have had no trouble with route. Camps were not fixed camps - when made C3 pulled up C2. Didn't have equipment for fixed camps.

Left BC on 26th May on return march.

Highest point reached on 24 May no higher than 18,500 ft. Would have meant another week of climbing to reach top. Members had other commitments. Had 10 days food left.


Wells & 2 Sibleys - 5 April 79

Want to go up S Face and down W Ridge. On face perhaps only 1 camp in snow cave - on ridge perhaps several prepared camps, perhaps not.


Roos - 2 April 79

Probably up S Face or S Buttress on south side and then to W Ridge up high on ridge. Somewhat different from British and Japanese routes.

BC at 13,000 ft at same place as British (John Allen). 40-50 porters to BC probably about one month on mountain if not delayed badly getting to BC.

No Sherpas above BC; no oxygen for climbing or sleeping.