원정 개요

Anma & Koizumi - 2 Jan 83

4760m had rest camp (was temporary BC also) where expeditions must have BC on col. Arrived 4700m on Nov 1 by advance party and started making route to BC on 2nd Nov, but icefall in very bad condition, so could not make permanent route around icefall till mid-Nov. Really started climb in mid-Nov.

Tourism Ministry's other camp dates and altitudes correct.

BC to C1 very easy route and C1 made only 1 day after BC.
C1 to C2 took 9 days because of strong winds.

Wangchu dumped oxygen because thought might unnecessary (had climbed to Manaslu and Makalu summit without oxygen). Then felt dizzy and became a reason for biv at 8030m since Wangchu took more time in his climb after going off oxygen. So although on 13 Dec other members made C3 after Koizumi and Wangchu had left C2 for top. C3 never used; more dangerous to walk in dark that to biv at 7930m. Had taken little snow-saw and pick to make biv snowhole, no sleeping bag or bivy bag but down jacket and trousers.

Koizumi used oxygen all way to top but at top it ran out and were unable find bottle Wangchu dropped.

Only 2 climbing Sherpas: Sirdar Ang Pemba and Wangchu.

2nd summit attempt in 16th by Hanai, Ishimura and Anma reached 7500m where waited for wind to stop but it did not; they did not use C3.

No 3rd attempt.
No accidents and Koizumi and Wangchu only little frostbite.
Not so cold but wind stronger than Koizumi.

Anma: winds 40-50 m/sec; recorded 40 m/sec and then records blown away.

Electric at BC: solar battery produced 60 watts and generator 800 watts. Solar gave constant power and generator propellor broken after 1 week by wind.

Weather short term forecasts by storage batteries daily from Delhi and from Tashkent long term forecasts. Were very useful and correct. Also received from AIR. Depended on these for climbing program; had weather intelligence officer in Nagoshi; forecasts of bad weather 1/2 day margin.

Only 2 times summit chance: 13-15 and 27-28 Dec when no strong winds.


Anma & Koizumi - 30 Dec 82

1 porter heavy appendix sick so asked for helicopter.
No accidents. All Ok except for icefall porter.
Could use other expeditions fixed rope.

Japanese summiter:

30 mins on top, took photos and movies. Found nothing on top, no pole found; raised no Japanese flag since only private party.

Climbing problem is high winds. Further reason because of rockfall: all camps were snowholes which are very effective against wind and rock and this very warm.

Climbed to summit from C2 at 7400m to top with oxygen. C3 made 7800m by other party but never used. Biv at 7980m instead of going to C3 because was very dark and not safe. Both he and Sherpa got slight frostbite during biv from 6:00 pm to 7:00 am.

So Anma in high altitude more than 8000m in this season very severe conditions very strong wind, very low temperature and low density of air. Now there is snow falling which means they cannot see the route. "I think it is very severe."

Only 2 times this month possible for high ascent: 13-15th and 27th.


Comments about Japanese Everest 1982 Winter expedition:

Akio Koizumi: Kato is very strong man, but Kobeyashi maybe only one night without oxygen. I'm afraid for Kato also after 3 nights.

Anma: Kato's ascent "very adventurous but he will have not so much scientific information about high altitude". No suicide attempt. He goes 3 times to Mount Everest and to get hat trick. I think he knows all about Everest. I think he attempts in confidence of success.


Sharma, Tourism - 22 Dec 82

C2 12 Dec 7400m
C3 13 Dec 7800m

13 Dec Wangchu Sherpa (32) amd Akio Koizumi reached 3:30 pm. Claim 1st mid-winter 8000m mountain.

All camps without tents but by snowholes.
Summiters started from C2 at 7:00 am on 13 Dec.

Weather fine in am but cloudy from afternoon. Wangchu used oxygen to 8000m and dropped it because of weight and after that his condition became worse. At top Koizumi spoke to BC by walkie-talkie: "AACH stand on top of Dhaulagiri I mid-winter. Thank you everybody. I climbed by the whole power of AACH" and passed birthday greetings to deputy leader.

Koizumi's oxygen finished at summit and it became dark so at 6:45 pm they made snowhole at 7930m and stayed night. Fortunately temperature was -30 degrees C. "It seems miracle that they were alive near 8000m" says leader.

14 Dec 7:00 am they started descent but sometimes became confused and slept on the snow. 1:30 pm 7500m Koizumi and Wangchu met 2 members coming up and returned C2 at 2:30 pm safely.

"2 summiters got slight frostbite but conditions is Ok."

2nd attack held 16 Dec but 3 men with draw because severe jet stream. Not known whether expedition finished.


Anma & Nagoshi - 16 Oct 82

Total 15 members: general leader and asst who came to Nepal mid-Dec and go to Pokhara. So 13 members on climb (really 12 because of Nagoshi at BC).

3 in KTM and 10 left in several parties beginning 4 Oct. Caravan route to Dhampus Pass, could be closed later. 1st party arrive BC after 10 Nov.

Anma meets them at Marpha or Jomsom 1-5 Nov and all arrive BC together 10 Nov 5800m on NE Col.

Route = NE Ridge; 4 camps above, C4 7800m

Very cold and very windy so BC = 4 or 5 snowholes. They will have electric generator = solar cells and wind generator; electric power for heating, cooking, light and receiving weather charts from Tashkent and Delhi.

25 oxygen for climbing above C4 and sleeping in C4, important in winter above 8000m because of heat loss.

2 or 3 Sherpas above BC. Summit 20 Dec or 25 Dec. Very difficult to go up after end Dec because of wind and lower temperatures. 2 or 3 members may be to top.

Anma waits in KTM till 1 Nov or goes on trek and return to KTM by 1 Nov for winter climb permit.

Other 2 now in KTM leave tomorrow.