원정 개요

Yamada - 6 Jan 83

Route was same as 1982 autumn. Saw North Ridge route, which if preferred would have taken long time to make its BC and this route already known to Pemba Tshering who was autumn 1982 summiter also. No avalanches, no accidents or frostbite.

24 Dec weather was snowfall and very strong winds. 4 more members in C2 for another summit attack but decided too dangerous because fresh snow avalanches possible and safety was first consideration.

3 Sherpas only above BC = 3 Sherpas members
Did not use oxygen at all.
All camp dates and altitudes given by Ministry of Tourism correct.


Sharma, Tourism - 4 Jan 83

Karyolung joint expedition

24 Dec: 1) Ang Kami Sherpa, 30
2) Pemba Tshering Sherpa, 38
3) Akira Yamada, 1950, surveyor, Toyama
4) Katsuichi Tanaka, 1954, Miyagi

to summit. Started from C2 5670m (established 21 Dec) at 6:00 am and on top 12:30 pm. Stayed on top 20 mins and 12:50 pm started descent; 15:00 arrived C2. 25 Dec they returned to BC at 4300m (9 Dec).

C1 5050m 16 Dec
All members well; leave BC soon after 25 Dec.
6 Japanese and 3 Nepalese members.


Doi - 30 Nov 82

Fly to Lukla 4 Dec is plan but baggage not yet in KTM, so probably delay
4 days to BC from Lukla.

Route may be North Ridge, maybe NE Face (same as aut 1982) if conditions not good on North Ridge; think will not use same route as autumn.


BC at 4800m northwest of Lumding Kharka for North Ridge route and
C1 5700m
C2 6200m
1st summit attack 23 Dec if leave
2nd " " 30 Dec
3rd " " 3 Jan

Return to KTM 13 Jan from Lukla; must return to Japan on 16 Jan
4 Sherpas including 3 members above BC
Nepal-Japan Joint Expedition to Mt Karyolung.
Medical oxygen only