원정 개요

Cholatse - S Ridge

Not an easy mountain but not terribly difficult. Heavy snowfall prevented earlier 2nd ascent, Had then to make route again and re-established C3 (which they had dismantled) at 6200m where US expedition's SE Ridge and S Ridge met. All to Thyangboche after taking down C3 and ropes above Col.


Tawoche - N Ridge

Returned to C2 on 4th Nov, Alpiger, Zahner and Kancha. On 5th up 100-120m higher over bad ice and much snow. Then on 6th 50m more via a traverse. 7th three members to 5900m (not Zahner); stopped by steep ice and loose snow and back to C2. 8th cleared fixed ropes and climb finished, back to C1. 9th in BC and snowfall.

No accidents and frostbite.

Above BC: Sonam, Kancha Tamang, Gyaltsen


Peter Hackett - 5 Nov 82

Cholatse-Tawoche

Hackett met Heidi Luedi at Thyangboche on 2 Nov. After 2 ascents of Cholatse, they are returning to climb Tawoche and expected to complete that climb by end of next week (c12 Nov.).

LO not at BC most of climb and not interested in need for expansion of climbing period.


Shyam, Tourism - 22 Oct 82

Cholatse, 6440m South Ridge
Success 18 Oct at 15:30 hours by Luedi and Kancha Tamang.

Started from C3 6100m at 8:30 am; stayed 25 mins, placed Swiss and Nepal flags and photos in foggy weather; reached C3 at 17:00 hours.

2 members are sick, so climbing finished; apparently not to Tawoche.


Ale, Tourism - 6 Oct 82

29 Sept C1 for Cholatse 5070m southeast of peak
Heidi Luedi and Francis Tamas made camp
All Ok, weather good


Luedi - 8 Sept 82

Cholatse first. Same BC for both mountains.
BC on east side of Tshola Glacier or there also routes = southeast of Cholatse and northeast of Tawoche
2 here now, 2 more arrive 27 Sept
2 now here leave about 10 or 11 Sept by road and foot; other 2 hope to fly in
BC established on 27 or 28 Sept at 4500m-4700m.

Cholatse route = South Ridge = new route. Much of South Ridge is rock (to about where SW Ridge joins it) so different climbing problem from SW Ridge route. Thinks SW Ridge should not have been so extremely difficult. Were not acclimatized and not fully equipped for ice.

C1 in a saddle but Cholatse and Tawoche and also will serve both climbs if permit is given for North Ridge of Tawoche.

C1 = about 5400m. Probably need a C2 for Cholatse when get to ice; altitude don't know, this highest camp.

Cholatse summit about 15-20 Oct - late 2 members might be able to join this climb.

Tawoche will also need a C2 perhaps in saddle between NW Summit (Pt 6367) and main summit (6542) at perhaps 6100m. Tawoche summit last days of Oct.

If have to keep route on Tawoche as SE Face/Ridge, may move BC and certainly new C1; C2 don't know where there might be place for it.

No Sherpas above BC probably, certainly not above C1.
No medical oxygen even.
International Cholatse-Tawoche Expedition

Tawache - North Ridge
Cholatse C2 = highest camp
Highest point 5900m