원정 개요

Makalu - BC 8 Sept 4900m
Went to West Pillar at first
Rausis got sick frequently and decided at end could no longer climb.

Made C1 on 15th Sept at 6100m following ABC at 5300m on 13 Sept. Went to 6600m where put C2 on 16 Sept at base of pillar and then returned to BC. Again up and reached 7400m for last acclimatization on 5 Oct by Nottaris and Troillet. Then Rausis said too weak to climb at all.

Decided to change from pillar to new route. Went to Polish C1 and discussed route on West Face to right of Kukuzcka route and joined K's route 7100m where had 2nd biv. Went on up his route and 3rd biv 7700m-8200m reached 17 Oct by Nottaris and Troillet. Wind strong: had taken away Poles tent. 18 Oct big snow and wind storm and retreated 1500m down K route - mostly hard ice, 60-65 degrees, some rock. On 19th arrived BC. After three strong north wind and more new snow at BC and on 21 Oct decided to quit.


Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 82

19th Oct Romolo Nottaris and Jean Troillet abandoned. Had asked to go to other route, but LO refused.


Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 82

Helicopter requested for member of Baruntse climb. Miss Marie Hiroz slipped 18th Oct when clearing equipment from mountain and injured skull. Doctor says needs hospitalization.


Nottaris & Troillet - 22 Aug 82

8 arrived yesterday
1 arrived about 1 week
Leave KTM 29th to Tumlingtar

Makalu route = W Pillar, same as France and USA. 3 members on this route and 6 on Cho Polu S Ridge, or if not available willing to go to Baruntse. Makalu alpine-style by best climbers; others not so strong climbers (including women).

2 climbs simultaneously, same BC. Arrived BC 15th Sept. BC 4900m, usual site ABC at 5000m - where 2 routes part.

Makalu: no further camps, only a tent for bivs. No Sherpas on Makalu and no oxygen or fixed camps.

Makalu summit 15-20 Oct
Cho Polu summit 10 Oct
Hotel on return = KTM Guest House


Ale, Tourism - 15 Oct 82

Swiss Makalu and Baruntse

Baruntse summit 2 Oct at 15:30 by Rudolf Homberger alone; left 6100m to go to top. Miss Vreni Kull reached 7200m with Homberger; because too steep she did not go to summit. 3 more members will attempt summit 6th Oct. All OK.


Nottaris - 28 Aug 82

Swiss Makalu and Baruntse

Expedition 2nd Mountain will be Baruntse not Cho Polu. Will use SE Ridge route. 6 will climb Baruntse only. Other 3 Nottaris, Rausis and Troillet will be only ones on Makalu. Trio may also do same acclimatization climbing on Baruntse or climbing it after Makalu. Troillet flew to Tumlingtar this morning with cargo. Rest of team fly to T'tar tomorrow afternoon.