원정 개요

Petronio - 31 Oct 82

Camps reported by ministry correct
C1 = ABC
C2 -> C3 was difficult mixed rock and ice; above C3 was 100m icefall and this also a problem; otherwise no problems.

BC was at south base of mountain, near Japanese BC and memorials for dead climbers.

Route = South Ridge above C1, below was couloir on southeast side. Think route was same as Japanese 1981 but perhaps last part (C4 to top) was different. Petronio went onto West Face here and then 200m below summit back to South Ridge. What looks like summit on postcard is not it; summit is behind; hence going onto face.

17 Oct Petronio and sirdar Nga Temba to top.

Cavallari and Ravagnan arrived C4 on 17th but did not go higher than C4. On 18th should have gone to top but bad weather (snow and wind), so that day descended together with summiters. Went to C3 where were Crepaz and Tavernaro and 2 Sherpas and from here they all went down same day to C1.

During this descent Crepaz hit by snow avalanche. He was last man descending and avalanche took him down West Face. Cavallari saw him go about 2000m. Not possible to reach him and went so far not possible to be alive. No other accidents nor any frostbite.


Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 82

Italy Langtang 7246m South Face
17 Oct summit reached at 12:45 pm without oxygen by

1) Mauro Petronio
2) Sirdar Nga Temba Sherpa, 32

in clear weather. Stayed on top 15 mins and hoisted Nepal and Italian flags, left ice axe, took photos. Had climbed from C4 at 6:00 am (altitude not given). At 1:00 pm started descent and at 16:30 arrived C4.

2 others also attempted summit same day but because of bad weather for them could not succeed. 18 Oct at 11:00 am 2nd leader Bruno Crepaz fell when coming down from C3 (6030m) with summiters and others to C2; slipped and fell down west side and died. To find dead body not possible because of avalanches on west side and weather deteriorating.

All others well. Leave BC 25 Oct

Langtang success 17th Oct by Petronio and Nga Temba. Left 9:00 am from C4 15 mins on top from 12:45 without oxygen on South Face. Weather fine on top. Returned C4 at 16:30. Afterwards Stefano Cavallari and Giuliano Ravagnan tried to top also but failed because bad weather and returned BC 18th. 18th at 11:00 am Bruno Crepaz descending from C3 to C2 fell 2000m in west direction into crevasse.

C2 = 5550m - 18,210 feet
C3 = 6030m - 19,785 feet


Ale, Tourism - 6 Oct 82

Leader suffering from high blood pressure and must rest few days.
BC 18 Sept 4150m. Deputy leader Bruno Crepaz is acting leader.


Toscan - 10 Sept 82

All 7 in KTM. Leave KTM 12 Sept he hopes by bus to Trisuli and then usual route to Langtang north-northeast to Syabrubesi then east via airfield. 6 days to BC.

BC at 4000m east of SE Ridge
Route = SE Ridge (same as Japanese spring 1981)
Deposit camp c4800-4900m

Probably 4 camps above this arrived BC c19th Sept; one week getting loads to deposit. BC to summit one month. About 4 Sherpas above BC.

Sirdar Nga Temba (Kangchenjunga, 1982, Spring SW).