원정 개요

Anglada - 2 Nov 82

BC: 1st group 11th and 2nd 14th Aug - C1 route - high point 8500m. Windy, very very cold, carrying 20 kg oxygen, etc., and technical difficulty of route. Very long route meant they were really tired.

Summit team [Cadiach, Perez Gil and Nima Dorje] should have left C5 at 8100m at about 1:30 am on 14 Oct but had to wait for light because so cold. All batteries dead including headlamps so actually left C5 at 4:00 am. Reached 8500m and climb got more difficult and wind stronger and stronger and saw could not reach top that day and biv in that wind and cold not safe.

Nima Dorje was not meant for summit bid but replaced Sherpa Phurba who got sick. Nima Dorje didn't not rope himself to others. Decided to go down by himself at almost same high point. He was alone and snow was dangerous. Fell down to Rongbuk Glacier where buried him.

Route West Ridge via Hornbein Couloir up and down, route all on Chinese side actually. Expedition delayed by (1) sick Sherpa who died and funeral held and (2) huge rock tower big as a cathedral came off below Lho La one morning at 5:00 o'clock. These 10-14 days lost caused expedition the summit.

Much worked very well and avoided Sherpas carrying loads on 50m vertical section below Lho La.

All members Ok. One summit team member has slightly frostbitten fingers.
20 Sherpas to Lho La or higher and 1 cook at C1.

Will come again to West Ridge perhaps Spring 1986.


Shyam, Tourism - 17 Oct 82

Climb abandoned 14 Oct because of death of Nima Dorje and bad weather. All in BC tomorrow and leave BC 21 Oct.

Summit team: Oscar Cadiach and Xavier Perez Gil were with Nima Dorje and reached 8500m.


Ale, Tourism - 14 Oct 82

12:45 am today 3 men started from C5: Nima Dorje Sherpa, 22, and 2 members when reached 8500m at 10:30 today Nima Dorje slipped from rock and fell 300m. Corpse not found but search continues. Other two are Ok, but names not revealed and return to C5 not known at BC whether expedition continues or ends.

Expedition says [Nima Dorje] presumed dead.


Ale, Tourism - 13 Oct 82

C5 8100m 12 Oct by big sirdar Shambu Tamang and 2 Sherpas.
Today 2 members and Nima Dorje will sleep there.
Tomorrow these 3 will try for summit.
Today clear and no wind in BC.


Ale, Tourism - 8 Oct 82

6 Oct 4 members pitched C4 7530m and slept there.
7-8 Oct they will go to rescue route to C5.
Before 5 Oct summit target date.


Sharma, Tourism - 8 Oct 82

Will fix ropes and pitch tents at C4 today and descend to C3.


Sharma, Tourism - 28 Sept 82

Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa, 38, of Namche, HA porter, died yesterday at C2 at 1:30 pm. He was complaining of stomach pain, vomited at noon and died. Body to BC today (arrive BC 3:00 pm) and tomorrow to relatives.

Expedition still making route to C4 today.


Shyam, Tourism - 22 Sept 82

3 members stayed at C3 last night and making route above C3 today.


Sharma, Tourism - 20 Sept 82

Leader to BC to C1

C3 to be occupied from tomorrow not today by members and Sherpas; only 2 members in BC tonight.


Shyam, Tourism - 20 Sept 82

Established C3 yesterday 3:00 pm at 7200m near top of W Shoulder by 5 members who put 3 tents. All returned to C2 yesterday. Today same 5 go back to C3 and stay there tonight. C4 after 7 days. All in good health.


Sharma, Tourism - 19 Sept 82

5 members only went to establish C3 7220m today from C2. Plan to equip C3 in 3-4 days and carry supplies to C4 site in same period provided weather remains good. Today sunny and good weather.


Sharma, Tourism - 17 Sept 82

C2 this am at 10:00 at 6770m (3 tents). 2 members and 4 Sherpas now in C2. C3 after 6-7 days.


Sharma, Tourism - 16 Sept 82

5 men reached C2 site 6700m yesterday but could not pitch camp. Today 4 men left C1 for pitching C2 today.


Sharma, Tourism - 15 Sept 82

5 men moving from C1 to C2 today; probably establish C2 today.


Sharma, Tourism - 14 Sept 82

Heavy snowfall last night so fearing avalanche, so no movement towards C2 today.


Prachandra Shrestha, Tourism - 13 Sept 82

2 members and 5 Sherpas in C1 today and intend to establish C2 tomorrow.


Sharma, Tourism - 8 Sept 82

Today some are carrying loads from C1 to C2 site while others are repairing route BC->C1.


Sharma, Tourism - 7 Sept 82

C1 on 3 Sept Lho La 6050m
Avalanche today 5 am 200m below Lho La;, no one hurt but fixed ropes taken away and 2 days to refix.


Barcelona Journalist - 6 Sept 82

14 all in BC
22 1st in Lho La
24 sleep in C1
26-27 C1 fully established
He left BC 24 Aug and met Lhotse 1st or 2nd day out.


Belvis & Anglada - 23 July 82

19 members all in KTM
1 reporter
1 cook
1 doctor (to Lho La)
1 TV reporter and TV cameraman not members and not above BC

Main group leave KTM tomorrow probably and Belvis and 2-3 Mon afternoon.
Establish BC 12 Aug.
Route same as Yugo route and camp same altitude.
BC - usual site
C1 - ice caves at Lho La
C2 - 6770m
C3 - 7000m
C4 - 7520m
C5 - 8120m

Equipment all route in Sept. Ready for summit by end of Sept; summit attacks end Sept to mid-Oct depending on weather. Long route and lot of fixed rope required. Have much rope for loads last 250m to Lho La.

2 sirdars - Ang Tshering (Jap 1975 spring)
18 HA porters
70 oxygen for climbing
Narayani Hotel on return