원정 개요

BC near Spaniard's C1
C1 on plateau of snow near Naike Col before face
C2 on snow face (NE Face)
High point at NE Face (C3 site).

3 weeks to make C2 after C1 because "everyday snowing." 24th Oct very bad wind, so no successful carry to C3 site this day. 25th Oct rest day, good weather; avalanche struck C2 5:40 pm and 7 who survived had to bivouac. Early am 26th Oct, rescuers up from C1 and all members went down to C1 and BC, next day all at BC. Had planned summit attack for 28th Oct, but avalanche destroyed supplies and some victims battered, so climb finished and no one went again to C3 site. Some skiing up and down mountain side but "many places cannot ski."

Oct 25 avalanche hit C2 and carried 1 member into crevasse, 4 Japanese and 3 Sherpas also hit (Japanese tent slipped 100m and they only buried; Sherpas tent also slipped and Nima Norbu in sleeping bag could not get out and was killed).