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Yamada - 10 Nov 82

Dhaulagiri I (Pear route)

2 arrived yesterday - all other arrives this afternoon
BC - 21 Sept - 4600m
C1 - 22 Sept - 5200m
C2 - 29 Sept - 6000m
C3 - 2 Oct - 6800m
C4 - 7 Oct - 7200m
C5 - 11 Oct - 7550m
C6 - 16 Oct - 7750m

Accident: not so big snow avalanche hit Yagihara, Miyazaki and Murakami climbing at 5400m on 26 Sept. They fell 150m. 2 men are Ok, but Yagihara's leg broken and forearm cut by ice axe. Yagihara stayed at BC rest of expedition and walking out with ski poles.

Not many avalanches; only 1 accident.
Route: at Pear itself climbed right side as some others have done.
Not much news about present expedition's route.

17th Oct 1st summit attack, but no success because still making route and time ran out. Takahashi, Matsunaga and Murakami reached 8000m.

18 Oct Yamada, Komatsu and Saito to top and stayed about 1 hour; returned to C6 about 2:30 pm.

All 6 summit party members used oxygen from C6 to top (or 8000m) and sleeping in C6.

Weather not so good weather on north side; snow mornings also.

Difficult 7500m to top, rock ridge very sharp with 3 rock pinnacles.

4900m fixed rope BC to top expedition succeeded because large team of climbers meant some resting while others doing difficult work making route at highest altitudes.

18 members and 7 Sherpas above BC.

Sure reached highest point on mountain (normal route team doubted). Yagihara after all was there before in 1978 and this time it was clear.


Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 82

Japanese Dhaulagiri I, Pear route, 9th expedition
Summit reached from C6 at 7950m (established 17 Oct)
After established C6 on 17 Oct attempted summit :
1) Takahashi Yoshiteru, 1943, Tokyo, co-staff
2) Yukio Matsunaga, 1948, Numatashi, co-employer
3) Kazumari Murakami, 1955, Tokyo, co-employee
Failed to reach top and returned to C6.

18 Oct:
1) Noboru Yamada (already climbed Dhaulagiri I in 1978), 1950, Numata sports
shop owner
2) Kozo Komatsu, 1954, Tokyo
3) Yasuhira Saito, 1953, Nagoya, designer
From C6 at 6:00 am using oxygen. At 11:30 am on summit, stayed 45 mins and took photos while snowing on summit. 12:06 started descent to C6, 14:25 reached C6.

All are well. No more attempts.


Ale, Tourism - 8 Oct 82

26 Sept Kuniaki Yagihara, Tsutomu Miyazaki, Kazunari Murakami started at 9:00 am from C1 to C2. Hit by avalanche and fell 160m. Yagihara's right wrist 7-inch wound and right leg hit and being treated. When he is Ok climbing will resume.

29 Sept C2 at 6030m by Noboru Yamada, Akuzawa, Yasuhira Saito and Yashio.


Shibuya - 22 Sept 82

Toshio Shibuya came by helicopter from Jomsom yesterday.
1st members arrive BC 9 Sept; 21 Sept all members in BC except Dr.
Toshio arrived Tukuche 11 Sept, stayed until 16th when went to Jomsom and asked for helicopter because fever and cough.
Today fever down and no cough, will go to BC with mailrunner who comes to KTM 27 Sept.
All others Ok.


Sasaki - 24 Aug 82

17 in KTM - 1 more arrive 2 or 3 Sept.
Leave KTM 26 Aug by road to Pokhara. Leave Pokhara 27 Aug. Caravan to
Tukuche 8 days.
Acclimatization climbing in Dhampus Peak, then 2 days Dhampus Pass to BC.
BC 4600m in usual site.
Route = Pear route; route variation on face between C3 and C4 depending on snow
and 6 camps above BC with C6 at 7800m
Arrive BC 25 Sept
Summit 25 Oct
7 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Pemba Norbu
Oxygen for sleeping in C5 and C6.