원정 개요

Sharma, Tourism - 9 Nov 82

Khatang NE Ridge
Khatang climbed by NMA in 1975 summit 30 Oct
Dorje Sherpa, 22
T. Kawamura
Y. Kitayama
at 9:07 hours without oxygen. Very windy at top. Started 6:00 am from C3 6310m. left top 9:37 am, arrived at C1 13:00 hours.

31 Oct - K. Kimura
H. Sato
C. Watanabe

31 Oct - K. Koyama
S. Sawada
T. Ono
A. Kamegai


Otani - 8 Nov 82

BC 8 Oct 4780m at southeast end of Tsho Og lake
Route = NE Ridge
Climbed quickly. 21 and 22 Oct much snow. 4 days climbing stopped.
No avalanches. Route was north of avalanche areas and very safe to ridge and on on ridge.

Ridge very steep knife ridge C2 to C3, but deep snow made climbing very difficult, 45-degree steepness. C3 to top 25-30 degrees.

No accidents, but Miss Kinoshita left because altitude sickness. No frostbite.

30 Oct left 6:00 am from C3 and top 9:07 am. Good weather, but strong wind and very cold (-25 degrees), stayed 30 mins: raised Japanese and Nepalese flags and took photos, returned C1 at 1:30 pm.

31 Oct: 1st party summiters from C3 6:00 am; top at 10:00 am (five days, so took many pix), returned to C1 2:15 pm.

31 Oct 2nd summiters from C2 8:15 am, C3 8:00 am, top at 11:45 am; returned C2 3:30 pm.

No ladies on top. Ridge very difficult. Mrs Yasuda little sick and Miss Kinoshita left very happy. Mt Khatang last year opened new mountain and first summit in world. "This record very happy."

Following this mountain success Nepalese cooperateed very well.

Hokkaido Workers Alpine Federation have another expedition to Nepal (mountain not decided) and Otani may be come again.

4 now in KTM - all 9 others arrive tomorrow (11 already gone home)
3 Sherpas including sirdar Tendi above BC.


Kamegai & Sato - 18 Sept 82

8 members now in KTM, arrived 15 and 17 Sept and leave 21 Sept; other 6 arrive 1 Oct and join first 8 at BC via flight to Lukla.
BC at point 4800m northeast of Khatang on Schneider map near Lake Tsho Og.
Route = South NE Ridge - very difficult knife ridge
Last year 2 members on recce
Go by road to Kirantichap, arrive in BC 8 Oct
3 camps above BC, C3 at 6400m
Icefall between BC and C1; C1 at 5600m
C2 not sure altitude of C2.

Hokkaido Mountain Khatang Expedition 1982
From Hokkaido Workers Alpine Federation
3 Sherpas above BC
Summit end Oct
4 medical oxygen only