원정 개요

1st BC - 4500m, 2 Oct - for West Ridge
2nd BC - 4800m, 9 Oct - for NE Face


Iwasa - 11 Nov 82

Route was West Ridge. BC at 4500m on 2 Oct. No C1 on this route. Went to 5200m scouting route and decided rock band on buttress 200m overhang too difficult.

2nd BC at 4800m on 9 Oct for NE Face
C1 5300m - 15 Oct
C2 5900m - 28 Oct

Difficulties: blue ice climbing icefall between C1 and C2 and much new snow very deep (waist) many avalanches between C1 and C2 so always crossed this area early am. Inoue hit by avalanche tried for summit on 30 Oct and reached 6400m in smaller summit party but could not go on. Next day brought more support.


Sharma, Tourism - 9 Nov82

2nd ascent by Nov 1 head constable Karma Bahadur Gurung '54 and 5 Japanese: Fujii, Nakao, Miss Nishimura, Makahara

Left BC 4 Nov
C2 28 Oct 5600m


Fujii & Nakao - 8 Nov 82

1st BC at 4500m near 4593 and Dudh Kund Lake (southwest of mountain) in Sept
2nd BC 4800m east of mountain 9 or 10 Oct
C1 - 5300m, 15 or 16 Oct
C2 - 5950m, 27 or 28 Oct
Route NE Face
Summit - 31 Oct - 8 men as ministry said

1 Nov - Fujii
Nakahara
Nakao
Miss Nishimura
Miss Yuda
Col. Gurung

Summiters = all 8 Japanese members and all 5 Nepalese climbing members (6th=doctor). Much snow made difficult and icefall had many crevasses, some avalanches which sent 1 Inoue member 10m down fixed ropes but Ok.
No accidents on frostbite.
3 Sherpas above BC.
28 and 29 Oct route making up blue ice and waist deep snow
Inoue left KTM 2-3 days ago - other 5 will arrive KTM tomorrow ex-Lukla.


Sharma, Tourism - 3 Nov 82

Karyolung (formerly unclimbed). Route changed to NE Ridge from South Ridge because of difficulties in placing camps on South Ridge.

C1, 17 Oct - 5000m
C2, 28 Oct - 5600m
29th worked on route
Attempted summit on 30 Oct but high wind returned to C2, who don't know.
31 Oct. 1) Co-leader Yogendra Thapa, police inspector, 34 years
2) Baburam Pun, inspector
3) Hiroshi Nishie, '59
4) Leader Yoshiyuki Inoue
5) Masatoshi Iwasa, '54

Time from C2 not known.

On summit 13:45 hours. Police put Khukuri on top and party put flags of Nepal and Japan. Returned to C2 and all others to BC same day - 4 arrive BC 20:00 hours.

31 Oct 1) Havildar Gore Tamang, '52, head constable
2) Gita Bahadur Joshi, head constable
3) Sirdar Pemba Tshering Sherpa

Reached summit also in second assault - time not known; another attempt expected.

1 Nov - remaining member left C2 in am to summit but results not known at BC.


Ale, Tourism - 8 Oct 82

2 Oct near Dudh Kund 4200m BC.
Will start climb from 3 Oct but facing route problem and will need extra time or to change route to NE Face.


Iwasa & Nakahara - 18 Sept 82

7 members now in KTM -
2-11 Sept
5-17 Sept
1 will come 5 Oct - leader Inoue
7 leave 20 Sept by truck to Kirantichap - 8 days to BC at 4000-4300m on Dudh Kund glacier
route = SW Ridge or North Ridge - both rock ridges, very steep (maybe 45') - difficult mountain
2 camps above BC - C2 about 6200m
6 Nepalese members from police
3 Sherpas above BC
Med oxygen only
Arrive BC about 27 Sept
Summit last week Oct - 1 month BC to top
Hotel Shangri La on return to KTM early Nov. Inoue arrive KTM 3 or 4 Nov, others few days later.


Shiro Kurouchi - 10 Aug 82

Route maybe from west - Nepalese member now doing recce - back in KTM in few days
12 + Japanese and 6 Nepalis - Yogendra Thapa
? Sherpas - Nepalis decide
KTM to BC about 1 week including truck to Jiri
Leave KTM 23-24 Sept = 1 month to climb
Nepal '75 attempt only attempt on Karyolung
Kurouchi only Japanese in KTM (arrived 8/10) - returns to Japan soon and back to KTM with other Japan members 10 Sept.