원정 개요

Kanazawa - 29 Oct 82

2 arrived 26 Oct, others arrive 4 or 5 Nov.

BC 22 Sept at 4650m
C1 27 Sept at 5700m
C2 3 Sept at 6650m
C3 15 Oct at 7500m
(reached 9th but then long rest at BC)

Summit 17 Oct by Mitani at 12:00 and Tanaka 14:15. No oxygen used.

Kanazawa not on top because getting frostbitten finger and as dentist cannot lose finger. Not difficult but very big mountain and only 3 camps. Some avalanches from Tukuche side though no one hurt. Summit party found bamboo pole on top and left Mitani's oven glove and Taneka's Japanese cigarettes. Maybe other Japanese went to top plateau and not actual summit because they did not find pole and oven glove.

Sherpas caught colds and sirdar slept in BC so Japanese had to carry loads.
1 member frostbitten right foot but may not lose toe. If used oxygen probably not frostbitten. No others on top because Sherpas not carrying and long way between camps.


Sharma, Tourism - 21 Oct 82

Takamatsu Dhaulagiri I, NE Ridge

Summit 17 Oct by
1) Toichiro Mitani, 1956, Kagawa, businessman
2) Junichi Taneka, 1952, Tokyo, businessman

Mitani at top 12:00; Taneka at top 14:15


Kanagawa - 29 Aug 82

All 5 members arrived
Leave KTM 31 Aug or 1 Sept by road to Pokhara
Arrive BC 20 Sept
BC 4700m
3 camps above BC
Route = NE Ridge = standard route
2 Sherpas above BC
No oxygen at all
Summit 20 Oct - or 20-25 Oct
Takamatsu Dhaulagiri I Expedition
Chose Dhaulagiri I as his 1st 8000er because wanted beautiful mountain not requiring 2-3 months.