원정 개요

Yuda - 16 Oct 82

Other members arrive KTM today or tomorrow; all Ok.
BC 31 Aug 5160m
C1 2 Sept 5800m
C2 7 Sept 6320m
C3 12 Sept 7050m
C4 20 Sept 7850m

Route to North Ridge more direct than standard route.
C1 east and little south of point 6170 on Schneider map at south end of Chago Glacier.
C2 due east of "a" in Chago Glacier on 2nd spur/ridge east of glacier.
C3 west-southwest from Makalu Col in 3rd from top of small west-east spurs.
C4 near 7800m contour line on Makalu's North (really NNW) Ridge.
No oxygen used in climbing or sleeping.


Yuda - 15 Oct 82

30 Sept at 16:30 hours 3 members to summit:
Kazuo Yuda
Dr. Yukihiro Michiwaki
Makoto Ishibashi

North Ridge, not to Makalu La, new variation. Weather bad on summit day, but climbers in good condition.
C4 7850m South attack camp; started climb 6:00 am. 2-3 minutes on top because
strong wind driving snow; returned C4 7:00 pm
19 Sept same 3 to C3
29 Sept C4

2 others not so strong so did not attempt top.
Yuda arrived 14th; others arrive 17th.
Yuda slight frostbite toes one foot.
Their route direct.


Onomura & Yuda - 31 July 82

2 arrived 29 July and 3 will come 1 Aug, leave KTM 11 Aug by air to Tumlingtar
Route = North Ridge

Do not go to Makalu Col, but climb from narrow north spur of Baruntse Glacier up ridge running south-southwest of Col and thence make horseshoe turn onto North (NNW) Ridge at 7600m

BC at 5300m (at "r" in Baruntse Glacier in Schneider map)
3 or 4 camps above BC, probably 3, highest at 7600m

Most difficult part of climb is just below 7600m, where get onto North Ridge, very steep: 6.9 rock and ice mixed. Plan put last camp at top of this section, where reach North Ridge.

Oxygen medical only
3 Sherpas above BC
Arrive BC 1 Sept
Summit 10 Oct