원정 개요

Ozaki - 23 Oct 82

BC established at 4100m by other 2 members on 3 Oct and Ozaki arrived 6 Oct.
C1 - 5 Oct at 4850m.
C2 - 10 Oct at 5400m about 100m to side of site where accident.
C2 - moved to very safe place Oct 11 after 1st C2 place moved because realized
1st site not safe.
C3 - 16 Oct at 6200m and all equipment carried up there by 3 Japanese after Ozaki
alone made route and fixed rope since others not strong and very slow; they
were not acclimatized.

1 Sherpa above BC arrived from C1 to C2 and then left expedition.

17 Oct Ozaki and thus carried to C3 and returned to C2. Planned 18 Oct all move to C3 but other 2 not so strong and decided 1 day next at C2.

18 Oct at 4:00 am in dark, avalanche struck C2. Blocks of ice 5m x 5m and snow came in not so big avalanche; blocks broke 2 men's tent and snow covered 1m deep while Ozaki's tent partly broken and little covered by snow. Ozaki called out and no response so got out quickly and dug in snow about 1-1/2 hours; found their bodies in tent moved maybe 1m. Ozaki waited for 7:00 am walkie-talkie radio contact with BC Sherpas and then went to C1 totally unharmed to meet Passang Norbu, an experienced man. 1 Sherpa there who came up from BC. At 6:00 am light snowfall. Face very dangerous above C1 and too dangerous to go to C2. They packed up C1 and both descended ot BC same day in afternoon and after eating left BC and biv in Mristi Khola that night.

19 Oct continued trek towards Jomsom which reached 21 Oct; flew Jomsom/Pokhara/KTM 22 Oct.

Plan 18 Oct Ozaki and others from C1 to C3. 19 Oct Ozaki to make C4 at about 6950m alone and go to summit alone 20 Oct.

No oxygen at all.

4 Nov families of dead members arrived KTM and Ozaki goes with them by plane or helicopter along side of Annapurna. 2 from Akamatsu family (maybe father and mother) and 1 from Ono (who don't know). Ozaki returned to Japan with them about 10 Nov.

Should go to Everest winter, but "my heart is broken" though body and spirit very good." This winter [stay] in Japan.


Sharma, Tourism - 21 Oct 82

Abandoned because death of leader
(1) Susumu Akamatsu, 1953 of Kawasaki, and
(2) Miki Ono, 1952.

On Oct 18 at about 4:00 am while at C2, snow avalanche covered C2 and they were buried. No information regarding recovery of bodies or camp found. One remaining member is well, Takashi Ozaki, 1952.


Ozaki - 28 Sept 82

500m fixed rope for Dutch Rib section.
Highest camp at 7000-7100m.
Other members no Himalayan experience.
Ozaki solo to top from highest camp which may be C3 or C4.
Ozaki leaves for BC 28 Sept, and arrive BC after 10 days.
2 Sherpas above BC.
No oxygen at all.
Hope summit 25 Oct (2 weeks on mountain).


Akamatsu - 21 Sept 82

2 arrive KTM 16 Sept, leave 22 Sept to Pokhara by bus
12 days to BC, arrive about 5 Oct
BC at 4000m
Route = North Face, Dutch route
4 camps above BC
C4 at 7000m or higher if possible
Summit 20 Oct-30 Oct
1 Sherpa above BC
No oxygen at all.

Yeti Dojin Annapurna I expedition
Ozaki in KTM 25 Sept and joins others at BC