원정 개요

Nakada - 13 Nov 82
Ganesh III & IV

BC - 4300m - 17 Sept
C1 - 5060m - 28 Sept
C2 - 5800m - 16 Oct
Made deposit site between BC and C1.

When made C1 are important. Dr Oneda fractured legs in roll 25 Sept and could not climb until 11 Oct. Another important member Kato sick (cold) and their climbing stopped. Other members load-carriers only, so no route-making until 11 Oct. C2 established 16 Oct and 2 days later site for C3 reached at 6200m right under a small peak. Nakada and all others except doctor reached this point.

4 members sick then and no more climbing. Decided to give up on 22 Oct because sick and bad weather: much snow and strong wind.

Aim was to climb Ganesh IV by NE Ridge and then Ganesh III.
All returned KTM 11 Nov. All well now: recovered on return march.
Route is very safe, but very long and difficult rock and ice. Put in 3000m fixed rope and very safe: all route was fixed from deposit site to C3 site.


Sharma, Tourism - 3 Nov 82

SE Ridge, North Ridge

C2 Oct 16 for Ganesh IV 5800m but because bad weather 22 Oct abandoned. Climb got no higher than C2 on Ganesh IV. Only 8 days tiime left so shortage of time also gives as reason. Left BC.

Sharma, Tourism - 27 Sept 82

Japanese Ganesh expedition made BC at 4300m on 17 Sept and start climbing Ganesh IV on 19 Sept.


Nakada - 30 Aug 82

Nakada was on Ganesh III in spring 1980.

7 arrived KTM 24 Aug - leave KTM 1 Sept by road to Gorkha. Caravan from Arughat to Yaru Khola. 10 days caravan from Gorkha to BC.
BC at 4500m on right side of Glacier at top of Yaru Khola.
Route = West Face to South Ridge of Ganesh III (same as in spring 1980) but start climb with Ganesh IV.

From BC first go around glacier where BC is (top or east end of glacier) to col on South Ridge of Ganesh III. On col will be C3 at 6300m then to Ganesh IV via this ridge leading away from Ganesh III to junction with NE Ridge of Ganesh IV, a route to Ganesh IV no one has tried before.

7 days from col (C3) to Ganesh IV summit and back to Col. Then to Ganesh III from col via South Ridge to col in 10 days.

Arrive BC about 11 Sept and start climb about 15 Sept
Arrive Col (C3) 30 Sept
Ganesh IV summit 7 Oct
Ganesn III summit 20-23 Oct, after rest at BC following Ganesh IV summit
No Sherpas above BC.
Medical oxygen only (2 hours only).