원정 개요

Haerter - 2 Nov 82

BC 4900m - 11 Oct
C1 5850m - 14 Oct
C2 6200m - 15 Oct

Summit 17 Oct as given by Ministry of Tourism except Welsch and Ang Pasang on top at 4:30 pm. All 5 men left C2 at 8:00 am. Was long day but no safe place for a C3: from C2 to top was avalanche danger.

Route = NE Spur to West Ridge to North Face.

Another summit try on 22 Oct by 5 men but turned back from 6800m because of wind.

3rd try: 23-24 night lot of snow which covered C2 so 6 occupants could not make summit bid on 24th. 3rd group member fell 10m on fixed rope between C2 and C1 and broke ribs.

Welsch has same frostbite and will lose little of toe.
No oxygen used. 4 Sherpas went above BC.
Left mountain on 24th.


Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 82

Tilicho 7132m, normal route on North Face. Summit 17 Oct.
C1 - 14 Oct 5850m
C2 - 15 Oct 6200m

Summit from C2 at 8:00 am, arrived 3:40-45 pm by Hirtreiter, Haerter, and Ang Dorje and other 2 at 4:00. Planted West Germany and Nepal flags. 7:00 pm all in C2 and all well; others will attempt summit.


Haerter - 25 Sept 82

Route = North Ridge from NE Spur, Swiss autumn 1980 route.
14 members here and leave KTM 27 Sept and return KTM 2-3 Nov. By road to Dumre and then up Marshyangdi to Manang Village to BC near Tilicho Lake at 4800m. Arrive BC 5 or 6 Oct.
2 camps above BC, C2 about 6300m
Summit about 20 Oct
4 Sherpas above BC including Messner's Ang Dorje as sirdar
Medical oxygen only
Commercial climb