원정 개요

Pohl - 25 Oct 82

BC 7 Oct at 5300m, same as Lhotse expedition BC site. Leader arrived
on 8 Oct because trouble acclimatizing.
11 Oct - 1st entered icefall when NZ Lhotse still in Cwm; went to 5800m at
beginning of traverse and back to BC.
12 Oct - again in Icefall to about 5850m for acclimatization and to see
Icefall; next NZ Lhotse descending; again back to BC.
13 Oct - rest
14 Oct - 3 up to top of Icefall 6000m and slept there (Pohl stayed
at BC with diarrhea)
15 Oct - 3 down to BC
16 Oct - rest
17 Oct - all 4 climbers to C1. 3 spent night and 1 returned to BC
because of headache.
18 Oct - 3 to C2 at nearly 6500m where Canadian's insulated tent was;
returned to C1; Nix and Pohl to BC.
19 Oct - Kruis also to BC leaving equipment in C1. Decided to stop
climb because Icefall in very bad condition: 8 ladders, also
fixed ropes across 5 crevasses gone and very warm even in early
am; increasingly warm now.
20 Oct - snowfall

To make attempt on mountain, need at least 1 week in Cwm and more dangerous at the end to go through Icefall. Not well acquainted with Icefall and it no longer being maintained by anyone.

When left KTM had hoped Canadians would still be on mountain. To change route no solution: heard Scots had great difficulties on West Ridge, were not prepared for South Face which knew nothing about. Never discussed route change.

All Ok. Pohl and Guggemos arrived today, other 2 trekking in in Gokyo and returned KTM after 2 weeks. Actually expedition poorly organized in came late, had equipment problems, badly arranged by inexperienced leader.


Shyam, Tourism - 17 Oct 82

Abandoned 16 Oct because of danger in Icefall route. Went into Icefall same distance. 19 Oct leave BC to KTM.


Nix, et al - 14 Sept 82

Arrived 13th Sept, leave soon as possible. 5 members arrive BC about 1 Oct at 5200m. ABC near Everest C2 6300m. Alpine-style up North Face, 2-3 bivs. Probably follow Scott's line or perhaps left of Scott's icefall. May use fixed ropes especially in icefall.
No Sherpas above BC
No oxygen at all or perhaps 1 medical bottle
1st German Nuptse Expedition
Begin climb on face about 10 Oct. Maximum 3 days up and 1 biv in descent
Probably stay at Everest Cottage on return (near KC's restaurant).