원정 개요

Schmitt - 11 Nov 82

50-degree steep icefalls much of the way up north, side of Nilgiri North and others 1/2 knife-edge ridge. Much too difficult for them. Too little time, too little gear. Had planned to make alpine-style ascent but after looking from a distance did not even go to BC.

Had been interested in Annapurna IV but DAV in Germany urged Nilgiri North instead; had seen trekkers' photos from Jomson party.


Sirdar Ang Pasang, Kharte village - 11 Nov 82

Leave KTM 19 Oct - arrive Jomsom after 9 days with porters. 2 days in Jomsom then to Muktinath and thence Thorang La and trek around Annapurna. Not to mountain because see then and find there very big mountains. Completely inexperienced; no time for such a climb.

Arrived KTM yesterday. all 5 members Ok.


Schmitt - 18 Oct 82

Leave tomorrow by bus to Pokhara; by foot up Kali Gandaki to Tukuche
Route = North Face to West Ridge - 1962 Dutch
About 10 days Pokhara to BC at 4500m
3 camps above BC
1 Sherpa above BC
Have time extension to 15 Nov and will take at least 13 days to top
No oxygen at all

Kletterklub Berggeier Rosenheim Nilgiri North Autumn 1982 Exped.
Flight on 23 Nov out of Nepal so back on 22nd in KTM at Narayani